Emission Control
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British X
Avg: 2 from 9 votes
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FA: | Greg Davis and Dan Hare, 1984 |
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Shared By: | David Benson on Sep 11, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Emission Control starts with the first pitch of Gonzo and then breaks right across the west face, around the arete, and up the south face of the Fin Four.
Rossiter mentions the original start, but notes that everyone usually just starts with Gonzo. Begin as for Gonzo, to the left of a large block between fins three and four. Continue the up the left-arching crack (8). With careful rope management, the first two pitches can be combined. Otherwise belay at the corner.
Move up the left side of Fin Four and move right past the old bolt (crux) and continue to the arete. The rock immediately past the crux on the right side of the arete is of poor quality and protection is basically non-existent, but the climbing is easy (7). Continue up the arete, good gear is available about 25' up in a horizontal break (wise to double this up). Continue up the arete to the top. Belay from a single bolt at the top.
The crux moves I feel are pretty moderate for 10d. Rossiter rates the upper section 7s, but I think it is more s/vs. Close to the top you're a good 35-40' out from your last piece of protection.
Rossiter mentions the original start, but notes that everyone usually just starts with Gonzo. Begin as for Gonzo, to the left of a large block between fins three and four. Continue the up the left-arching crack (8). With careful rope management, the first two pitches can be combined. Otherwise belay at the corner.
Move up the left side of Fin Four and move right past the old bolt (crux) and continue to the arete. The rock immediately past the crux on the right side of the arete is of poor quality and protection is basically non-existent, but the climbing is easy (7). Continue up the arete, good gear is available about 25' up in a horizontal break (wise to double this up). Continue up the arete to the top. Belay from a single bolt at the top.
The crux moves I feel are pretty moderate for 10d. Rossiter rates the upper section 7s, but I think it is more s/vs. Close to the top you're a good 35-40' out from your last piece of protection.
3 Comments