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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
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Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Fluke TR 
Flying Fish S 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
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Holy Mackerel S 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Emilia's Corner 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Rogers, LP, first lead of dihedral variation - Lou Thatcher
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 14, 2012

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Emilia's Corner. This photo was taken prior to cl...

Description 

Named in honor of Emilia, born to Jon and Mary, this route is a nice little line with a few variations to add value.

Find this line perhaps 50-60' to the right of Great Wide Shark at the right end of the obvious development at East Quarry. Some hedge trimmers might be nice to enhance the short walk from the already cleared path.

For the above described difficulty rating, climb up using a combination of the hand crack on the left wall and the right-facing dihedral. Maybe halfway up, the climbing pulls one to the left to finish the crack. Move up and then stem back right into the dihedral. Finish up on an interesting combination of face holds. The best anchor is maybe 20 feet from the edge. A #0.5 & #1 Camalots and a blue Alien can be used for the anchor.

There are two more variations here to play on:

1. The left crack (tight hands to wider hands) can be climbed without use of the dihedral. The inside of the crack has mineral deposits which can make it a bit painful at times. Finish back in the dihedral.

2. The dihedral itself may be climbed. The crux is sequential and demands paying attention to your feet. Protecting this on lead requires small wires and tiny cams in funkier rock. A #10 hex fits in the 1st slot with some fiddling. You can get a #2 Camalot in the crack to the left after the crux.

To descend: walk off to the left to the descent gully perhaps 150 yards away or rap off one of the bolt anchors that you can access on the East Quarry routes to the left.

Emilia, I hope someday you will dance up this corner like your parents float up routes.

Location 

This is perhaps 50-60 feet to the right of Great Wide Shark at the east end of the East Quarry in darker rock.

Protection 

Tiny cams to a #3 Camalot. 2 #1 Camalots are useful. Small wires, green Alien, #10 hex, #2 Camalot, red Alien, and anchor gear will be useful for the dihedral variation.


Photos of Emilia's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Lou leads the dihedral variation.
Lou leads the dihedral variation.
Daddy Jon tries the line.
Daddy Jon tries the line.

Comments on Emilia's Corner Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 13, 2012

Video by Jon Tashkin:

youtu.be/DW38SZuePao
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2013

A bolt anchor (and some further cleaning) will make this a solid 2-star route. The walk-off to the left is a bit loose and sketchy.