This ascends another very dirty crack system which is north facing and also in the "War Wall". A good wall to top rope and is probably a grovel of a 5.11+ if done free.
On the War Wall just to the left or south of DAW. 30 second approach from the Canyon road at the mouth, but feels very isolated.
QDs for 8 bolts to a three bolt chain belay.
|Comments on Emigration Escape
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 6, 2008
Probably 11c. Loose, dirty, but better than DAW. A "key" (at least it seemed key) hold at the top in the left crack broke, loosing a large and dangerous section of the crack, should it pull out and fall on your belayer. With a sandblaster and a bucket of glue, this could be a fine little crag.
1 day ago
These climbs (and a couple more in between the remaining bolts) were bolted and led by myself and a couple of buddies in 1993. Some time in the mid nineties someone came and chopped the lower bolts and at least one set of anchors.
We spent weeks cleaning the wall with crow bars, wire brushes and the like, and it eventually cleaned up nicely for the season. The problem with the wall is that the dirt hillside above it drains directly over the wall and re-dirties the whole wall every winter/spring.
On the left side we had a decent .10b, next over is an .11b (which is what I think you guys are calling "Emigration Escape" and an .11d/.12a where the anchors are with no bolts below it (they were chopped). We did not put up the bolts or anchors for "Dripping Alien Wax".
FA of the leftmost three routes are Zandy Wight (.10b), and Clay Cahoon (.11b & the .11d/12a).
As mentioned, after tons of work we got it really cleaned up and climbed on it safely all season, only to see it completely dirty and dangerous again the next spring.
Interesting to see it being given some renewed life! Don't belay underneath the climber on these routes! You never know what might come off this wall...