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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Apr 14, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

Chuck Manburger wrote:
In the Chalk Bag zipper pocket (I forgot how much I put in there): ---Smallest (Tie-dye) Swiss army knife on a small piece of cord. ---An almost used-up roll of climbing tape. Fold in half… ---Extra pair of disposable contacts ---Small packet of Neosporin/generic. (You can get individual little packets) ---$5….phone/food/BLM fees ---Petzl e-light…no packaging Anything over single pitch… ---Bail biner---OLD Locker ---15ft web, 15ft 6mil cord, rap-ring ---Small pulley ---Tiblock ---2 small prussic…one a little longer than the other In the pack……sometimes. ---Knife/Leatherman ----Water ---Headlamp ---Snacks ---Lighter/matches ---Whistle ---Rain gear and/or heavy-duty space blanket ------Totally Optional!!!!! ---Beer or Rocks (depending on route and who my partner is…..) ---Cell Phone (if service avail) ----Gloves ----SMALL First-aid kit ---- Casual day=Bread, cheese, salami In the truck… ----My photocopy of the route beta (because I forget to bring it) ----HUGE First-Aid Kit ---Water and a couple of sodas and/or beer. ---Beef Jerky...Hidden from partner, if possible, until back at the car post-climb.


My new safety plan is to climb whatever route runs adjacent to Chuck ;)

Seriously, O-shit biner and two prussics. Adding headlamp and aluminum rap rings based on good suggestions here. I always bring both to the wall in my bag, but have yet to add them to my harness. Will do next time.


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By Timothy Mark
Apr 14, 2011

Chuck Manburger wrote:
---Extra pair of disposable contacts

Are you really planning on replacing a contact in the middle of a climb? That idea just gives me the willies. Dirty hands, dirty face, no mirror, yikes. I wear contacts, but I can get around without them - I'd probably bring glasses if I needed them to climb or rap.


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By Derek W
Apr 14, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron

Does anybody have any chalk bags with the zipper pocket they'd recommend? I mean, I know a chalk bag is a chalk bag, but...


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2011
How I Send

Tool Catch = dumbest thing I have seen on ice since "THE FALL"

I typically carry a knife a prusik and tibloc (or second prusik) and lockers.

Comprehensive first aid kit, including diarrhea pills, H20 Treatment and lighter, you never know when you might need one for the safety meetings!

  • If you have an old style suspension helmet i.e. the petzl ecrin rock, you can fit a small first aid kit in the top.


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By Andrew Blease
From 4runner, parking lot, USA
Apr 14, 2011

Bang Nhan wrote:
So normally, how long are the Prussiks for emergency use? I would imagine one is long for leg loop and a shorter one to attach to the harness. Am I wrong?


Both of my prussiks are just long enough to get 4 wraps around 2 strands of rope. If they need to be extended a 4 ft. runner will work just fine. The shorter prussiks are easier to tie with one hand.


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By Ty Meadows
From Moab, UT
Apr 14, 2011
hellvis

A bail biner, cord, and a bud (for medicinal purposes only, of course).


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By Tim Pegg
Apr 14, 2011
Me on Hallett Peak's 2nd Buttress.

JLP wrote:
This thread reminds me of the guys who brought a flare gun with them up Mescalito. Only a gumby would do that - so of course they ended up using it. I have to wonder how much the thing weighed and what was really on their mind as they were packing - success or being dumbasses? They were rescued and cited for creating a hazardous situation.


How is this even remotely similar? Both a knife and whistle small, lightweight and are basically essential for any back country emergency. Additionally, a prusik is lightweight, and can get you out of a situation where you might otherwise need another party's assistance.

To be fair, you can improvise an ascender with slings (which you're probably carrying anyway) instead of dedicated prusiks, but dedicated foot loops are really nice.

That being said, I always carry a knife, whistle, headlamp, and first aid kit. If I don't know the rap route, I carry a couple reasonably strong quick links--I can get them cheaper than rap rings--to be used with cordelette to make a rap anchor.


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Apr 14, 2011

I would not ever want to ascend a rope on slings or webbing. Prussik would be first choice because it can hold lead fall forces or close to it depending on diameters and can hold in either direction. Friction knots using slings or webbing as I recall start to slide at something a bit more than body weight.

I ascended two 60m free hanging lines to unstuck them once and all I could imagine as the ropes twanged and shifted up above was how much tension was on the ropes and how ropes under tension can cut like butter. For the chance something did break, I had the ropes tied to the anchor down below and a single piece of protection part way up.

Oh and if you are looking for how to make a foot loop, try the Texas Prussik. A regular prussik clipped to a loose sling works just as well


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By bearbreeder
Apr 14, 2011

DannyUncanny wrote:
I would not ever want to ascend a rope on slings or webbing. Prussik would be first choice because it can hold lead fall forces or close to it depending on diameters and can hold in either direction. Friction knots using slings or webbing as I recall start to slide at something a bit more than body weight.



wrong ... look at the tests here ... while not rated for 20k+ (what knot is?) ... its more than enough to shimy up a rope ... youll be tying backup knots anyways

www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/pull_tests_11_98.html


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Apr 14, 2011

Like I said, my biggest fear ascending a stuck rope is that there is a failure above me. Klemheist is no good if you are anchored below.


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Apr 14, 2011
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Andrew Blease wrote:
Both of my prussiks are just long enough to get 4 wraps around 2 strands of rope. If they need to be extended a 4 ft. runner will work just fine. The shorter prussiks are easier to tie with one hand.



What is the thickness of the accessory rope for making prussiks? Would 7mm too bulky?


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 14, 2011
smiley face

6 seems to be a good all-around size.


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By bearbreeder
Apr 14, 2011

DannyUncanny wrote:
Like I said, my biggest fear ascending a stuck rope is that there is a failure above me. Klemheist is no good if you are anchored below.


it depends what gets stuck ...

if the end gets stuck youll have enough rope for your partner to put you back on belay ... while you shimy up the stuck end ... much safer to be tied in than just using a prussik ... and you may even be able to place pro

if its the knot that gets stuck on a full 60 m rappel and there aint sufficient rope to lead back up... then i dont really know if a 6mm prussik will hold whats in essense a factor 2 fall on the anchor if the rope pops or gets cut ... of if youd live regardless through that fall


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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

DannyUncanny wrote:
Like I said, my biggest fear ascending a stuck rope is that there is a failure above me. Klemheist is no good if you are anchored below.

But the backup knots clipped to your harness would back up your Klemheists, wouldn't they? In fact, they would take the fall. You need a little slack to tie them, of course.


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Apr 15, 2011

brenta wrote:
But the backup knots clipped to your harness would back up your Klemheists, wouldn't they? In fact, they would take the fall. You need a little slack to tie them, of course.


If your backup knots are clipped to your harness then you are bringing the rope up with you, and hence not attached to anything but the anchor up above. Maybe with enough slack you could do something like tie a knot and drop a knot every few feet, but man that would add a serious amount of time to your ascent.


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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

DannyUncanny wrote:
that would add a serious amount of time to your ascent.

It would, but taking a big fall on a Prusik does not sound much better. I don't want to pass judgment on the specific situation you mentioned: you were there and I was not. Speaking in general, though, if one may take a high-factor fall, then relying on friction hitches as attachments to the rope introduces a weak link. One normally does not do so when lead climbing.


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By jhn payne
Apr 15, 2011
"Ragin Cajun" 5.12c Jackson Falls, So Il.

Geez, I just rely on the St. Bernard with the Brandy


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Apr 15, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!

Scott McMahon wrote:
hmmm...not trying to judge and I'm sure there weren't alot of options...buuuuut. That seem a little dangerous and maybe not the BEST thing to do? And that's me trying to put it nicely. Lower me, and I'll take my partners tools.


He was on top rope, the tool wasn't that far above him and we were the only ones there. I would have just climbed up with 1 tool but it was not a safety issue doing it that way. Let's not get too worried here...


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