Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge

Select Area...
Bear Lake and Bear's Den 
Emerald Lake & vicinity 
Flattop Mountain - S side 
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice 
Nymph Lake 

Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.30996, -105.66821 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 160,702
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Hallett and Flattop, Tyndall Gorge.

Description 

Tyndall Gorge is comprised of the alpine rock routes on Hallett Peak, rock and alpine routes on the south face of Flattop Mountain (The Dragon's Tail), and Emerald Lake bouldering. Easy access from Bear Lake increases its popularity (let's play Dodge the Tourist!), not to mention some stellar routes. The area has something for everyone - easy alpine cruises, long trad routes, hard ice climbing, and boulders.

[Eds. for this section, it seems reasonable to split this into Bear Lake & vicinity, Nymph Lake & vicinity 0.5mi, Emerald Lake & vicinity 1.8mi, Flattop Mt 2.5mi, and Hallett Peak, 2.5mi. You're unlikely to need GPS in this area.]


Getting There 

From the Bear Lake Trailhead, follow signs to Dream Lake and Emerald Lake. A 45 minute hike up the canyon on good trails gets you to the upper-most lake - Emerald Lake. The alpine routes and rock climbs on Flattop Mtn. are accesses by rock hopping around the north side of the lake. Hallet Peak is reached by traversing the slope above the south shore. Allow an hour to the base of Dragon's Tail Couloir (in the summer) and an hour and a half or more to the base of Hallett.


35 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge:
Steep is Flat   M5-6     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   Flattop Mountain - S side
Tyndall Gully   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 800'   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
The Slit   M5-6     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900'   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Dragon's Tooth   M2 Mod. Snow     Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, Grade V   Flattop Mountain - S side
Bullet   WI3+ M6+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir   WI2 M2     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine   Flattop Mountain - S side
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5   M5     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade IV   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
The Squid   WI5-6 M6-7     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 140'   Emerald Lake & vicinity
Englishman's Route   M5-6     Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress   M4-5     Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
East Ridge   4th 1 2 I M 1b Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine   Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Flattop Mountain - S side
Browse More Classics in Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge

Featured Route For Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge
Near the end of P1 on Great Dihedral.

Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate, but is sustained and of high quality. Notes:Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.This route is not conditions dependent, and makes fo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge
Photos of Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
taken 1/2002 looking up tyndall gorge
BETA PHOTO: taken 1/2002 looking up tyndall gorge
Comments on Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2002

Attempted Hallet's Chimney on Sunday. Found similar conditions as people in Dragon's Tail. Very deep snow, no ice.

By Jeff St. Pierre
Feb 18, 2003

Sunday (2/16/03) we (my two friends, Sean, Sara, and myself) headed up Odessa trail, cut off to ptarmagin glacier. Climbed up the south edge of ptarmagin glacier, crossed Flattop and came down Tyndall Glacier. 5:30AM to 3:30PM car to car. High winds on summit. Had crampons, but did not need them. Wind-packed snow in places made kick-stepping difficult, but not impossible. Alpine axes a must in my book. Harnessed up, but never got the rope out. Fairly safe route, good alpine day trip.

A wind packed layer of snow on the surface of tyndall glacier broke free... about 100 meters across, about 8 - 10 inches deep. Sean was below it, having just finished his glissade. He was just on the edge and was able to brace himself as I shouted a warning. Had he been in the middle He probably would have been swept off his feet, but doubtful he would have been burried. However, High winds coming across the divide continue to move snow onto the lee slope. Another slad broke free when we attempted another glissade towards emerald lake. Plunge stepping seems to be the better technique.

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 29, 2003

Hallett, "Bullet" is awaiting a second ascent. WI-3, M-6 this route went up a couple winters ago by me and Brad Grohusky. It is easily found below and left of Hallet Chimney, in a small flow that exits the lower left buttress at the top of the snowfield. The ice peters out about 50' up. The following rock diheadral ends at a huge roof. exit to the left, thru the crux. Hike up onto the next ledge, and find a fixed pin on the next wall to make a 200' rappel to the ground. I will try to post the topo, too.

By Ben
Nov 3, 2003

My buddy Matt and I climbed a couloir next to the Tyndall Glacier last weekend. It was fantastic neve for about 800'+. We don't know if it has a name, though. Anyone have any idea about that or is it considered a branch of the glacier? High winds on top of the divide, 50-60 mph. The glacier has a lot of exposed grey ice. The only new snow was a light dusting that fell while we were there.