Man this route is rad. Start climbing off the nice little ledge on some pretty thin slabbin straight up the black water streak (crux). On this section you will make your way past five bolts until you gain a nice little crack on your right after a nice rest. Climb up the crack system which is really cool using finger locks, hand jams and crimps until you hit another bolt at about 100 feet.
At this point, bust out right and do a cruxy move pulling the buldge on your right, while clippin another bolt. After you pull the buldge, start breakin left onto the slab clipping the last bolt for a while. Climb up the slab until you're quite a ways off that bolt (30 feet) and climb into a shallow corner. There is a blue TCU placement on the left side of the corner if you feel like you need some pro.
This fine line is the 4th route on the wall climbers right. It follows a prominent black water streak up the wall for 170 feet of bliss. Belay from a nice ledge directly under the first bolt.
Single rack up to a #2 camalot is more than enough to supplement tbe bolts. 14 draws. Two 60 meter ropes to rap.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Great climbing! The initial three or four bolts of thin climbing on bullet, water-polished rock is tough but very well protected. The variety of climbing on this line is awesome. I placed a couple of bomber small nuts and RPs, a red link cam and yellow link cam in a horizontal way up high.
We replaced the cord and beefed up the rap ring on the anchor today, 12/27/2013.