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 ADVANCED
Thieves Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptism by Fire T 
Brawn Wall, The T 
Emerald Dance T 
Grand Larceny T 
Rolling Rock T 
Sometimes a Great Notion T 
Thieves in the Temple S 
Tongue-in-Groove S 
Two-Tone Arete S 
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Emerald Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Don Blume 1986
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Kristan Markey on Apr 28, 2013

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Description 

Long wandering, Gunk-like pitch. Starting up the twin cracks, make some delicate moves (above the 2nd piece of pro) to stance. Continue up a seam until you are below the roof, then traverse right then up again. Belay stance has a wonderful view of the bridge and gorge.

Descend from the ring bolts with a single 60m rope. Otherwise, use a a 50m rope and head straight down to the anchors for Thieves in a temple.

Location 

Starts just to the right of Two-Tone Arete. Start at the twin cracks, but use the left one. Route wanders right about halfway up.

Protection 

Standard rack, focus on TCUs/C3s. Bolt anchors (these are new since the Williams guide). If 5.9 is your limit on lead, this route will feel spicy, especially at the bottom.


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