Eliot Glacier Headwall

This is a nice way to get all up on that summit of Mt. Hood. It would seem the prime time would be late winter or spring. We were able to find some nice ice as late as June (in 2013), but we were racing the sun. Rockfall becomes an issue with warmer temps as the crumbly headwall showers down on your head like rocks often do. Depending on the time of year, you'll encounter alpine ice to plastered snow in different forms in the rocky runnels. In mid-June we found good ice (but melting fast) - earlier in the season would most likely yield safer conditions.

You can cross the lower glacier from the point described above, heading west/southwest over a few sections of moraine to the western side of the Elliot glacier. You'll ultimately head south up a huge slog up to the top of Snow Dome orrrrrrrrrr you could just climb up the glacier proper to the base of the headwall. The choice is yours - the slog up SD is less technical and most likely faster. From the top of Snow Dome, head either directly left through the icefall to the base, or you can cross the big crevasse just below the clump of rock, and head up and around the small clump of rock's right side before you traverse over to the base of the headwall.

There are several crevasses to deal with (hopefully with bridges). The headwall itself is a choose-your-own adventure kind of thing, look for where the lines go and GO. Depending on how direct you are able to climb, the number of pitches will vary. We headed far left from Snow Dome to cross at the easiest spot, and then had to traverse to the right side of the wall, head up, then traverse far left due to rockfall lines. Depending on your skill level, you can simul or pitch it out. The climbing is fun and moderate, with a few short steps in the ice depending on conditions.

You can emerge pretty much on the summit, depending on the cornice situation, etc. We traverse far left, joining what I think is the North Face routes for a nice arete of Neve to the top. Again, once you're below the wall, you can see where to go. It ain't rocket science. Descend the Sunshine or back down the southside if you've got nice friends that will pick you up.

This area has many variations, some of them are named and documented and others are not.  Some of the known variations, from left to right, are:

-Left Cirque Direct: Starts on the left side of the headwall close to Cathedral Spire, finishes in the large gully system that is just to climber's right of the true summit.

-Center Cirque Direct (Wallace-Olson, 1989): Starts on the right-center end of the headwall, with some large flows of WI3.  Continue up several pitches of snow and easier ice, and then finish up the distinctive corner/chimney feature which may have thin ice and difficulties up to WI4 or 5.7.  This variation tops out opposite of Mazama Chute.

-Right Cirque (McJury-Leuthold, 1938): Start on the right side of the face with some steep flows on a small cliffband (may be thin).  Continue up lower angled ice to a final steeper step at a rock band.  This variation finishes a bit to the west of Old Chute.

There are several approach options.  You can do the regular route from the south side and drop down via the upper Sunshine route to do just the headwall.  If approaching this way, descend to the flat spot known as "Queen's Chair" and then traverse directly into the routes.

If you want a harder day, you can start from the north side and earn those swings. Depending on the time of the year, access to the roads on the north side may be restricted. We had hoped to start at around 5900 feet or so near the Cloud Cap Inn, but there is a gate (that was locked) at a trailhead at about 3800 feet. Starting from this lower point will take you up and past the Tilly Jane cabin to join the trail heading up the Cooper Spur. The trail from the Cloud Cap Inn also joins this route, and you'll drop down towards the Eliot Glacier from the beginning of the spur route at the large cairn marking a use trail. This is the same approach you'd make for the Sunshine route or the Eliot Glacier from the trailheads.