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Elizabeth Furnace

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Buzzard Rocks 
Talking Headwall 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Elizabeth Furnace  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 38.94656, -78.30231 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,527
Administrators: Aaron James Parlier, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: franciscov on Nov 22, 2007
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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The ridge at Buzzard Rocks


Elizabeth Furnace is divided into two sections. Buzzard Rocks and the Talking Headwall. Buzzard rock offers slab climbing with great exposure to the valley below. The Talking Headwall is at the base of the valley and offers big overhangs on friendly jugs. You're not going to find a lifetime of climbing at either crag but you can find some quality moderate routes in a beautiful setting.

If you want to take a break from climbing take a dip in Passage Creek. There are some great swimming holes and the cool water temps are great in the summer. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails in the George Washington Forest. For the fishermen out there Passage creek is a stocked creek, and offers some great fly or bait fishing.

Don't forget to stop at Waterlick Grocery and show your support to the locals. The owner supports climbing and sells light gear. Anything you need to know about the Elizabeth Furnace/Fort Valley area can be found here. I've also heard the burritos are fantastic!

Getting There 

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 then turn left onto Mountain Road (Route 619).

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Elizabeth Furnace:
Three Amigos Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Buzzard Rocks
Three Amigos Double Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Buzzard Rocks
Angry Muppets   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Talking Headwall
Kimberly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Buzzard Rocks
Unknown 1   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Buzzard Rocks
Anonymous Flake Right   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Rather be Sk8boarding   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Buzzard Rocks
Prajapati   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
I Love Big Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Half and Half   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
Melungian Brotherhood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
Ass Cannibal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Buzzard Rocks
The Bulge   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Pulp Friction   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
Ne Plus Ultra   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Pure Energy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Talking Headwall
Fortis   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Big Balls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Talking Headwall
Foops   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Leading Should Feel This Way   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Browse More Classics in Elizabeth Furnace

Featured Route For Elizabeth Furnace
Owen finishing out on the namesakes flake.

Anonymous Flake Right 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  VA : Elizabeth Furnace : Buzzard Rocks
Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Comments on Elizabeth Furnace Add Comment
Show which comments
By J Lederhosen
5 days ago
This is the best area for Sport and Trad climbing within ~1hr from the NoVA area.

Also great camping option 2mi down the road from the crag, plus fly fishing in the creek and good hiking.
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