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Elgin Wall

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Speechless T 

Elgin Wall  


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Administrators: Brennan Crellin, Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mark kerns on Nov 17, 2007
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Description 

Facing South at the north end of the Grand Ronde Valley near Elgin, Or. This crag is very secluded. the chances of meeting another climbing party here are very rare indeed. the rock is Andesite, compact and smooth. This is a traditional climbing area. the established routes there are from the ground up, so don't expect to find many bolts.

Getting There 

For the life of me i cannot remember the exact directions to get there. I am hoping to get some help from the locals on this one...i used to be a local there, but times change. Help Boys! Please list out the directions to the crag.
the approach is short, about 15 to 25 minutes walk in an easterly direction from a pullout on the road.
Climbers from the local area haver been frequenting the Elgin Wall since at least the early 70's. there is a ton of potential for routes, just not a lot of climbers in the area. Watch for snakes, there are many in the scree below the crag.
The best route there to my knowledge is called "Speechless" a 2 pitch crack climb with the 1st pitch passing a roof and the second a beautiful hand crack to a fixed belay. rappel the line to descend.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Elgin Wall
Steve Brown on Speechless 1985

Speechless 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  OR : North Eastern Oregon : Elgin Wall
P1 - start under the roof, using a thin finger crack for gear. moving left under the roof throw up a heel hook and pull over to a good belay stance - 40 ft. 10a.P2 - climb the excellent hand crack for 120ft to a fixed belay. 10b....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Elgin Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Elgin Wall Center - Speechless can be seen at the roof in the bottom of the photo just left of center following the hand crack straight up - just left of center.
BETA PHOTO: Elgin Wall Center - Speechless can be seen at the ...
Elgin wall - Mark Kerns climbing
Elgin wall - Mark Kerns climbing

Comments on Elgin Wall Add Comment
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By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Dec 3, 2007
Mark, like you my memory fails me even though I climbed there as well. A friend from my days in Corvallis has a nice page on the area (as well as many others):

people.whitman.edu/~pogue/clim...
By Marcey Monohan
Feb 24, 2013
This area is NOT for public climbing. This is on PRIVATE PROPERTY and the owner of the property does not want climbing on this rock wall.