|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||ClimbandMine on Feb 7, 2003|
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From: East Bay, CA
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I did this several days ago and actually thought it was really quality, especially compared to its 5.9 neighbor to the left (though I'm sure many would disagree with this comparison). It is pretty steep and so I stemmed for most of the climb with great footholds on both sides of the dihedral - moves sometimes akin to that on the problem Once Upon a Time in Yosemite's Candyland. The delicate moves yield memorably to the flow of the climb.
You can protect with small gear, say doubles of #1-#6 mastercams to be sure, plus a perfect horizontal placement that takes a #2 BD C4 in a crack shelf to your right just before the mesmerizing crux (extend with at least a short draw) towards the top. The only con is that the corner is slightly dirty in some places; otherwise, a real classic that definitely should not be missed.
Descend and then drive down to Snowshed for Moles Corner if you're in high spirit for dihedrals of the same grade.