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Holdout
Routes Sorted
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19th Nervous Breakdown T 
Arch Stanton T,S 
Beefeater T 
Bushwhack T 
Currey's Diagonal T 
Eleven Cent Moon T,S,TR 
Equilibrium T 
Existential Dilemma T 
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 
Morning Sickness T 
Narrow and Ugly T 
Oslund's Delight T 
Pipeline S 
Rainbow in the Dark T 
Reading Raymond Chandler T,TR 
Silver Surfer T 
Up the Down Chimney T 
Veggie Eater S 
Very Narrow and Treesy T 
Wide and Ugly T 
William T 
Wright of Thick and Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Eleven Cent Moon 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Piana and Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Not a great shot, but better than nothing.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nice route below and slightly [right] of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing, thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. An unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line.

Protection 

This mixed route requires mostly small gear, small nuts, cams and clips two bolts. Shares anchor with Currey's Diagonal. The pin mentioned in the guide for the initial traverse is not present, although protection is manageable (TCUs and nuts).


Photos of Eleven Cent Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Near the crux.
Near the crux.

Comments on Eleven Cent Moon Add Comment
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By Andy Johnson
Sep 15, 2003

Just did this route this weekend and thought it was really enjoyable. There are actually three bolts that you clip and here is all you will need for pro. 1 yellow Alien, 1 red Alien and 1blue Metolius TCU. You need a little bit of go for it for the crux. Just remember that as with most climbing routes, the feet are really important.
By nolteboy
Apr 15, 2005

A green Alien can be finagled in just before the crux moves. Very aesthetic, very foot-work oriented.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I did this back in the summer of 2001 with my buddy Scott Miller. Excellent climbing with a thrilling finish. Footwork is key.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I placed small stoppers before the crux moves instead of TCUs, because I didn't want to plug up any important finger locks. I had two very good stoppers about 6 inches apart to protect the hard moves. Your feet are above the gear at the desperate part but the fall is very clean. This is a great pitch.
By peachy spohn
Jun 5, 2014

Great route! The piton is gone, but it isn't necessary: a cam (#2 Metolius) and a small stopper can be used. I also placed a small stopper in the amazing, arching, super cool dihedral.