Elephant in the Room
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 130'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (February 2009)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||664|
|Submitted By: ||Matthew Fienup on Feb 5, 2009|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Elephant in the Room, at Derrydale ...
Varied climbing through three tiers of rock on the tallest part of the wall.
The route starts with steep face climbing on positive holds (5.8+) on rock that is strangely reminiscent of San Ysidro. Upon reaching a ledge atop the first tier, the route follows blocks up and slightly right, in the direction of an obvious overhang. The route then follows positive holds up to the roof. A devilish mantel leads to easy slab-climbing.
The route ends on a wide, grassy ledge in what feels like a rocky amphitheater--the position is excellent.
The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.
The routes starts in a gully next to the road, on the right hand side of the crag. Click here for location.
7 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), yellow TCU, 1-inch cam. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.
Matthew Fienup leading "Elephant in the Room", on ...
|Comments on Elephant in the Room
|By Romain Wacziarg|
Feb 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Another terrible looking route with a shitty name!
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 6, 2009
The next crag that we open should have route names that are ALL surfing cliches...I'm thinking pointbreak, longboard, doubleoverhead...
From: Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2009
Only two stars girls? clearly another instant classic.
|By Rob Chaney|
May 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
fun route worth doing a bit run out in between the 3rd and 4th and the 4 and 5th bolts a fall before clipping the 4th bolt would result in a huge very ugly fall. how ever it is very easy climbing, I was very relived after clipping the 4th bolt. the mantel move is a very big committing move. it is possible to climb around it by going left. if you go for it look for a right foot to push you over the top. I placed a OP .75 link cam at the start of the route (bommer pice).
Is there any gear that im missing in between the 3rd & 4th, 5th & 6th bolts?