Elephant in the Room
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 130'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (February 2009)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||673|
|Submitted By: ||Matthew Fienup on Feb 5, 2009|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Elephant in the Room, at Derrydale ...
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Varied climbing through three tiers of rock on the tallest part of the wall.
The route starts with steep face climbing on positive holds (5.8+) on rock that is strangely reminiscent of San Ysidro. Upon reaching a ledge atop the first tier, the route follows blocks up and slightly right, in the direction of an obvious overhang. The route then follows positive holds up to the roof. A devilish mantel leads to easy slab-climbing.
The route ends on a wide, grassy ledge in what feels like a rocky amphitheater--the position is excellent.
The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.
The routes starts in a gully next to the road, on the right hand side of the crag. Click here for location.
7 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), yellow TCU, 1-inch cam. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.
Matthew Fienup leading "Elephant in the Room", on ...
|By Romain Wacziarg|
Feb 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Another terrible looking route with a shitty name!
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 6, 2009
The next crag that we open should have route names that are ALL surfing cliches...I'm thinking pointbreak, longboard, doubleoverhead...
From: Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2009
Only two stars girls? clearly another instant classic.
|By Rob Chaney|
May 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
fun route worth doing a bit run out in between the 3rd and 4th and the 4 and 5th bolts a fall before clipping the 4th bolt would result in a huge very ugly fall. how ever it is very easy climbing, I was very relived after clipping the 4th bolt. the mantel move is a very big committing move. it is possible to climb around it by going left. if you go for it look for a right foot to push you over the top. I placed a OP .75 link cam at the start of the route (bommer pice).
Is there any gear that im missing in between the 3rd & 4th, 5th & 6th bolts?