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Monument Canyon
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Elephant Head 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,447
Submitted By: Tom Dansby on Jul 24, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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More direct route climbed by Casey Dansby 7/24/03.


We climbed 2 different routes, and found them to be challenging yet not overwhelming. There is something for all us novices to work on; convex face, dimpled face, finger and hand crack, 1-4 inch ledges, etc.

See the photos: press onto a 3 inch ledge (#1) and work along it and some toe cracks to a finger and hand crack on the left (#2).Climb the crack to another small ledge and work right on the convex wall to a bolt hanger (#3). Or power over the dimpled face with smooth 1 finger pockets and toe smears to the hanger (#3). Continue up and right to the top of the elephants head (#4). From here, it is finger holds and toe smears up and left to the second bolt hanger (#5) then an easy scramble up to the top (#6).


There are 2 bolt hangers to the left of the elephant head. Trees and boulders for TR anchors are 10-20 feet from edge, so longer webbing needed for anchor.


Follow Monument Canyon trail from Trail head on CO Hwy 340. Where trail leaves fence to follow creek bed:

To the top: 30 yards up the trail on the right, follow a drainage to the bottom of the sloping flatrock. Level 2 hike up this for about 150- 200 feet and find 3 sets of chickenheads set for TR anchors. These were set by local climbing school. Continue up the slope another 150 feet to an area with several trees large enough to use for TR anchors.

To the bottom: continue on the trail for about 100 yards to a rock outcropping that resembles an elephant head and trunk (or skull). This rock is directly below the above described TR area. (See pictures). There are 2 bolt hangers to the left of the elephant head.

Photos of Elephant Head Slideshow Add Photo
This is the Elephant Head from the trail.
This is the Elephant Head from the trail.
Anchor area on top of Elephant Head.
Anchor area on top of Elephant Head.
This route provides some of everything this climb has to offer.
This route provides some of everything this climb ...
Comments on Elephant Head Add Comment
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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Apr 3, 2011

Any idea what those routes downhill from this with the drilled pin TR anchors go at? There are 3 of them easiest on the left and hardest on the right (looking at the slab from the base).

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 25, 2013

I just lead the undercling crack and then clipped the second bolt and then went to the top. We TRed the true line, and it's a little chossy getting to first bolt.