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Central Reservation Climbs
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Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 
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Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 
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Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 
Round Rock (S E Side) T 
Smith Spire West Face T 
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 
Whale, NE Arete, The T 
Window Rock III (Crag) T 

Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Povolny, Todd Gordon, Dec., 1983
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 19, 2007

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Elephant Butte is the formation behind the Lucky S...

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Description 

Climb (5.9) up to a hand section, cut right (hands again), and go around a corner (5.10a) to an O Wth (5.9) and the belay below and to the right of the elephant's trunk. Climb up a 5.5 low angle chimney to the elephants trunk, and cut left to the left side of the trunk (5.7) and up to a belay. Pitch 3; 5.5 easy rotten rock to the summit.

Location 

Behind Lucky Strike Spire, and in front of Black Mesa, on the high plateau behind Chinle Hospital, Chinle, Arizona

Protection 

There are two bolted anchors, two fixed nuts, an one fixed pin. Take a couple sets of cams. Rap the route.


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 19, 2007

I don't remember much about this route;...which is strange, because I remember most unique climbs. I remember this climb was one of Brian's projects;...It's an odd one because all the other climbs in the area are either crag routes or spires...this one being a multi- pitch meas route.