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This is an interesting short route with a huge approach. It is worth doing if you happen to be in the area.
This climb lies on the west face of the uppermost summit of Angel's Way. This summit sticks out like a diving board to the west and is directly south of the Fist or Hippo Head (and in the same strata of rock). The route is right under the diving board like summit (although you cannot see the diving board from the start of the route).
Locate this black overhanging crack which looks harder than 5.9 (Rossiter's rating). A large face hold to the right of the crack is a key feature of this route. You can obtain a bizarre and very comfy rest by draping your right arm over this horn. The two cruxes are getting your feet onto the hold, and second climbing off it. Seemed harder than 5.9 to us.
Once you turn the overhang, the climbing is easier up a bizarre rounded dihedral. Belay at a small tree. Scramble north to the ground (this route does not go to the summit).
Wires and small cams to 2"
George at the beginning of the second crux.
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Haas' book gives it 9+, and it seemed solid for the grade. Good pro, but awkward/barndoor sort of feel to it. Pretty good little route.