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Electric Stove Couch
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 8
votes
Routes in Picnic Area
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Electric Stove Couch T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grishnakh or Gorbag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichen It? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Picnic Crack Right T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pine Tree (Picnic Face) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Dove a.k.a. Picnic Crack Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trash Patrol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,137 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Olson on Sep 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
This climb has a combination of crack and face moves. The features are discontinuous, but the moves are fun if not fluid. There are plenty of options to make the route harder, the most obvious being pulling the roof on crimps at the top. The 5.7 version skirts left of the roof and out the wide fists crack at the top.
Location
45° 23.7906' N, 92° 39.3351W (reading taken at Picnic Area Face)
This route is about 30' to climber's right (South) and around the corner from the Picnic Area face. From below, look for a right-facing dihedral with a large roof at the top. Above you, near the top, a wide fists crack separates the roof from surrounding rock on climber's left.
To locate the top for setting anchors, hike up Riverbluff trail from the picnic grounds and boat launch. Find the prominent tall prow (about 8 feet above the trail) that marks the top of the Picnic Area face climbs. About 30' South of this prow is another rock prow - this one is low, right at trail level. You will see the distinct wide fists crack that splits the prow. The roof below is to the left of this crack.
This route is about 30' to climber's right (South) and around the corner from the Picnic Area face. From below, look for a right-facing dihedral with a large roof at the top. Above you, near the top, a wide fists crack separates the roof from surrounding rock on climber's left.
To locate the top for setting anchors, hike up Riverbluff trail from the picnic grounds and boat launch. Find the prominent tall prow (about 8 feet above the trail) that marks the top of the Picnic Area face climbs. About 30' South of this prow is another rock prow - this one is low, right at trail level. You will see the distinct wide fists crack that splits the prow. The roof below is to the left of this crack.
Protection
I'm not much of a leader on gear, but this climb stikes me as hard to protect on lead. The cracks down low are very shallow, and the mid-section seems dicey. Let me know if I'm wrong - I didn't climb it with an eye on placements.
The features at the top facilitate an easy top rope setup including a tree and a couple cracks. If you drop your anchor in the slightly worn dish about 18" left the wide fist crack that splits the prow, your rope will be hanging over the large roof below. This placement still allows you to avoid the roof by skirting it left.
The features at the top facilitate an easy top rope setup including a tree and a couple cracks. If you drop your anchor in the slightly worn dish about 18" left the wide fist crack that splits the prow, your rope will be hanging over the large roof below. This placement still allows you to avoid the roof by skirting it left.
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