Electric Socks 

WOW this has to be the best 5.8 at Rumney! Well then again there is the Junco at Jimmy Cliff...

Anyways, If you are open-minded about climbing and wanna try something new: Get on ES. It will definitely be memorable. I know, the crux is unlike anything I've ever done before.

If 5.9,5.10- is your limit maybe wear a helmet since it seems like falling in that chimney could make you fall on the back wall. Better be safe than sorry!

Anyways, enjoy it!

Dom, im glad to see that we agree on the 2 best 5.8s at rumney...

Absolutely loved this route. The variety going from the chimney to the exposure and then a little slab action makes you feel like you're really climbing something meant to be climbed! Classic for sure.

It appears to be a little damp early in the season (just did it today, March 6th) towards the top but it really wasn't a problem.

Also have some care in the final hideaway after the slab area, it appears a lot of birds like to do their business in there.

I did this climb with my dad belaying me after teaching him how to belay 30 minutes earlier..... it was quite an adventure! The climb goes way out of sight and almost out of earshot of the belayer, so once you pull up onto the slab you have a nice moment of solitude with an amazing view to enjoy.

Get on it! Might be better than Junco...

As good as 5.8 can get. An awesome lead for those who want the experience of climbing Jolt but aren't quite at that grade. Very similar climb just much easier. 3 stars because the beginning sucks, but the upper arete makes up for it.

I was not very convinced about this climb at first but it turned out to be a super fun climb with a lot of varied ground as I started to work on it. Moved out too much to the left on the chimney at the 4th bolt to get some great hidden holds and almost got my helmet stuck!!. Had to think hard to figure a move out of the crux.

Use long runners if possible, lots of rope drag esp after you move on to the slab section.

right at the top, at the anchors, it seems like there is some kind of a nest (falcon ?) on the ledge, seems like its old but still beautiful. There was no birds and it looked dry & weather beaten. Anyone know anything about this ?

The view from the top is amazing. A damm good 5.8 that will keep you guessing on the moves.

That sounds like a raven's nest. they make a big pile of sticks.

I seem to remember that if you actually used a short draw near the top of the chimney and then watched how the rope ran as you went up and clip the next bolt, the rope would than stay out of the notch where it otherwise catches and causes the rope drag. If you get that right, there should be minimal rope drag above.

Please check the big rock the anchors are set into. When I used it for the FA it seemed well wedged in and solid, but seeing some of the massive stuff that has come down lately as a result of storms, the thought of this anchor gives me the heebie jeebies. Don't use it if it doesn't look solid any more.