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Electric Socks 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 6/00
Page Views: 2,515
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Near the chimney

Description 

This one can be a little scary if you aren't used to the techniques and exposure involved, but it is a favorite of mine thanks to the awkwardness of the chimney crux and exposed nature of the top...

Start up the chimney on unusually sharp rock. The rock gets less sharp as you climb...The crux of the route is exiting the chimney section. Most of the good holds are on the left as you climb out of the chimney, but they are hard to get to.... After the chimney, the angle eases off and you follow a ridge with great exposure to one more short steep section with nothing underneath you but air. Keep your head on straight and you will be clipping the chains in no time....

Location 

The far left route at the crag. From the low point where Jolt (5.10b) starts, follow a trail up and left. You will see an inviting crack (Who Done It? 5.9) to the left of the crack bolts lead up in to a chimney...that's your start....

Protection 

11 bolts to quick clips. Use of a short draw at the top of the corner and careful watching where the rope goes as you pass it can eliminate a lot of rope drag.... 60m rope needed!!!


Photos of Electric Socks Slideshow Add Photo
Jakob emerging from the chimney...
Jakob emerging from the chimney...
Exposed view from the top of Electric Socks.
Exposed view from the top of Electric Socks.
Not the best picture, but it gives you a good perspective on the start of the route.  Damon's just below the crux - the exit from the chimney.
Not the best picture, but it gives you a good pers...
Eli thinking on Electric
Eli thinking on Electric
Nicole heading up Electric Socks
Nicole heading up Electric Socks
Jakob following electric socks... really the best way to clean it...
Jakob following electric socks... really the best ...
Simon LÚveillÚ just starting.
Simon LÚveillÚ just starting.

Comments on Electric Socks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WOW this has to be the best 5.8 at Rumney! Well then again there is the Junco at Jimmy Cliff...

Anyways, If you are open-minded about climbing and wanna try something new: Get on ES. It will definitely be memorable. I know, the crux is unlike anything I've ever done before.

If 5.9,5.10- is your limit maybe wear a helmet since it seems like falling in that chimney could make you fall on the back wall. Better be safe than sorry!

Anyways, enjoy it!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 29, 2009

Dom, im glad to see that we agree on the 2 best 5.8s at rumney...
By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
Mar 6, 2010

Absolutely loved this route. The variety going from the chimney to the exposure and then a little slab action makes you feel like you're really climbing something meant to be climbed! Classic for sure.

It appears to be a little damp early in the season (just did it today, March 6th) towards the top but it really wasn't a problem.

Also have some care in the final hideaway after the slab area, it appears a lot of birds like to do their business in there.
By twellman
Mar 16, 2010

I did this climb with my dad belaying me after teaching him how to belay 30 minutes earlier..... it was quite an adventure! The climb goes way out of sight and almost out of earshot of the belayer, so once you pull up onto the slab you have a nice moment of solitude with an amazing view to enjoy.

Get on it! Might be better than Junco...
By Couloirman
From: Providence, RI
Apr 19, 2012

As good as 5.8 can get. An awesome lead for those who want the experience of climbing Jolt but aren't quite at that grade. Very similar climb just much easier. 3 stars because the beginning sucks, but the upper arete makes up for it.
By V menon
From: new york
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was not very convinced about this climb at first but it turned out to be a super fun climb with a lot of varied ground as I started to work on it. Moved out too much to the left on the chimney at the 4th bolt to get some great hidden holds and almost got my helmet stuck!!. Had to think hard to figure a move out of the crux.

Use long runners if possible, lots of rope drag esp after you move on to the slab section.

right at the top, at the anchors, it seems like there is some kind of a nest (falcon ?) on the ledge, seems like its old but still beautiful. There was no birds and it looked dry & weather beaten. Anyone know anything about this ?

The view from the top is amazing. A damm good 5.8 that will keep you guessing on the moves.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 9, 2012

That sounds like a raven's nest. they make a big pile of sticks.

I seem to remember that if you actually used a short draw near the top of the chimney and then watched how the rope ran as you went up and clip the next bolt, the rope would than stay out of the notch where it otherwise catches and causes the rope drag. If you get that right, there should be minimal rope drag above.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 14, 2013

Please check the big rock the anchors are set into. When I used it for the FA it seemed well wedged in and solid, but seeing some of the massive stuff that has come down lately as a result of storms, the thought of this anchor gives me the heebie jeebies. Don't use it if it doesn't look solid any more.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Aug 19, 2013

A really beautiful climb with incredible exposure. Do not try to clean this route while lowering unless you want major shenanigans to ensue.