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Electric Rats 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Forrest Gardner, Peter Henley - 1985
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Start of Electric Rats, 5.10c, T-Wall, TN.

Description 

Located on a narrow buttress of rock with a steep cave at ground level, just right of the 13 with the chains and Mrs. Socrates.

Climb up through an intial band of roofs on jugs, then plug in some high gear before pulling unto the face above via some powerful liebacks. This upper face is somewhat obscured from view by the trees, but it contains a nice wide crack with many face holds.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Electric Rats Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling into the scoop of Electric Rats, T-wall, T...
Pulling into the scoop of Electric Rats, T-wall, T...

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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 22, 2008

This is just around the corner from the wall with Golden Locks, Cake Walk, et al. Great route with great gear and fun moves....it just keeps on going...
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jan 23, 2008

I remember the gear being somewhat less than ideal in the first 20'. I could be wrong about that though. Awesome crack climbing above the powerful roof, though.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 23, 2008

I would say there is gear...if you wanna hang out and plug it in. Better to boulder up to the ledge and put in a couple of pieces.
By 426
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Here's the skinny...go up on the first roof, throw a #2 up in the big loose flake so if you go over the falls you won't hit the reef. Once up on the ledge, lay down in an undignified fashion and pull your cam. Step up to the real deal and pop a couple of pieces in. get ready for awkward cranks all the way through the scoop...it's on.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

426 said it best!
By Arthur Cammers
From: Lexington, KY
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Bring a #4 and a #5 BD for the upper section; when I think standard rack I stop at #3, I don't usually include these sizes.