|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Jason Chen & Walt Wehner|
|Submitted By:||Jason Halladay on Apr 17, 2009|
|Comments on Electric Pet Gri-Gri||Add Comment|
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Oct 24, 2009
|Jason Chen and I had the FA of this. We spent a long time trying to clean the middle/upper section, but it's just not very good rock. I would probably avoid this one, as the quality of the moves doesn't make up for the scary rock.|
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|11d?!?!? I'd love to hear what anyone else has to say about the rating. If this is 11d, then I missed something major - unlikely since I hung there for a long time. I had just redpointed Against All Cobbs and Whipper Wonderland and this felt like it was between the grades of those two. I did some stiff 5.11 moves to get to a jug right of the 2nd last bolt on the overhanging section. It then took me about 20 tries to find a sequence from there to the arete. Thought maybe I got suckered to the right, but I couldn't find a way to go straight up or to the left either.|
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
5.11+ seemed fair to me. Definitely much easier than Whipper Wonderland and Against All Cobbs! Maybe you were just tired after climbing those two, haha? I think I was climbing a foot or two to the left of the bolt line when the climbing got hard, but I don't remember too well. I was just following the chalk, to be honest.
This is actually a pretty fun route. The rock is a bit fragile in places, but the quality would improve with more traffic.