Electric Pet Gri-Gri
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Start up steep but juggy rock to clip the first bolt. The angle backs off immediately past the second bolt and up to the third clip. Pull on steep jugs and then climb as gently as possible through some questionable rock past the fifth and sixth bolts. Breathe a sigh of relief as you grab the better rock on the arete to the left and finish up easier terrain to the anchor.
The rock in the upper-middle portion of the route is pretty dubious and I was a bit sketched to pull very hard on some of the jugs.
About 20 feet left of Walt's Wall Waltz on a semi-separate wall. Easily identifiable by the light brown sketchy rock on the steep part by the fifth and sixth bolts.
8 bolts with Spanish "lucky" hangers to a two-bolt anchor that's not well equalized. Needs a few screw links. Rapping the route recommended.
|Comments on Electric Pet Gri-Gri
Oct 24, 2009
Jason Chen and I had the FA of this. We spent a long time trying to clean the middle/upper section, but it's just not very good rock. I would probably avoid this one, as the quality of the moves doesn't make up for the scary rock.
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
11d?!?!? I'd love to hear what anyone else has to say about the rating. If this is 11d, then I missed something major - unlikely since I hung there for a long time. I had just redpointed Against All Cobbs and Whipper Wonderland and this felt like it was between the grades of those two. I did some stiff 5.11 moves to get to a jug right of the 2nd last bolt on the overhanging section. It then took me about 20 tries to find a sequence from there to the arete. Thought maybe I got suckered to the right, but I couldn't find a way to go straight up or to the left either.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
5.11+ seemed fair to me. Definitely much easier than Whipper Wonderland and Against All Cobbs! Maybe you were just tired after climbing those two, haha? I think I was climbing a foot or two to the left of the bolt line when the climbing got hard, but I don't remember too well. I was just following the chalk, to be honest.
This is actually a pretty fun route. The rock is a bit fragile in places, but the quality would improve with more traffic.