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 ADVANCED
Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Electric Koolaid 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. & T. Swain on TR, '94. Retrobolted.
Page Views: 2,266
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Joe Leading Electric Koolaid

Description 

This route climbs the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. Although there is nothing really wrong with the route, it's not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb the now-bolted line at the left edge of the crag to reach the anchors up and right, above Blonde Dwarf.

Protection 

A set or draws or a TR.


Photos of Electric Koolaid Slideshow Add Photo
Close to the end.  Great (near) vertical climbing!
Close to the end. Great (near) vertical climbing!
Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Nicole Hansche enjoying the desert sun...
Nicole Hansche enjoying the desert sun...
Elaine clipping on Electric Koolaid.
Elaine clipping on Electric Koolaid.
I forget his nane but he was a nice guy who gave g...
I forget his nane but he was a nice guy who gave g...
Andy leading it out to the first bolt while the at...
Andy leading it out to the first bolt while the at...
Nicole Hansche farther up in to Electric Kool-aid ...
Nicole Hansche farther up in to Electric Kool-aid ...
Rrrrrrrr.  Chris on Electric Koolaid.
Rrrrrrrr. Chris on Electric Koolaid.
Sean on the sharp end feeling the buzz of Electric...
Sean on the sharp end feeling the buzz of Electric...
Electric Koolaid, with Blonde Dwarf splitting off ...
BETA PHOTO: Electric Koolaid, with Blonde Dwarf splitting off ...
Henry up Electric Koolaid
Henry up Electric Koolaid

Comments on Electric Koolaid Add Comment
Show which comments
By 10b4me
Mar 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I found the route finding a little tricky. Climbiing on the left side of the bolts is easier than climbing on the right side. Having said that, there is no way this route is a 9+. I rate it a 9 or 9-. Still found the route to be fun.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007

A great climb on positive holds. Less travelled than the easier sport routes on this wall.
By Ron Graham
Jan 21, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you toprope this route, you might want to leave in some directional quickdraws on the top couple of bolts. Otherwise, climbers will have a difficult time staying on route. The direct line to the anchor is about a grade more difficult than the line following the bolts.

This is a very fun route that starts out easy on big holds and gets plenty challenging with crimpers and side pulls at the top!
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Apr 13, 2009

Stay left from the start up through bolt 4. Move rightat the 4th bolt to the 5th bolt then straight up to the anchors. A bit more strenuous then Neon Sunset, but positive holds throughout. As a TR, we left the 4th bolt clipped as a directional.
By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009

You can do the last section going left or to the right. Right being straight up. The left was really too easy, but if you go straight up which is to the right of the last clip, the climb was a lot more fun and a tad harder. I tried both ways and I really enjoyed going rt more than going left. FYI, most of the chalk is to the left of the last clip.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My favorite route on the Magic Bus. It takes a little more thought than it's neighbors . . .
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with two 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts and mussy hooks. Pro bolts are all in great shape and did not need replacements.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jan 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My favorite climb here. Aside from "Neon Sunset," this route features the most continuous climbing. It felt like a solid 5.9 to me, but probably nothing harder.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 20, 2012

Handren must have been confused when he gave three stars to Neon Sunset and only one to this route. I think he meant to do it the other way around. This is a much better route, though the finish is odd for a sport route.

Also, if this is 5.9+, then the 5.9+ routes in the Black Corridor are 11a. No single move harder than 5.8.