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Routes in John Henry Grotto
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Carbon Footprint S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Easy Wind S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Electric Jesus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Heartbreaker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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John Henry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Oh Two S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shagadelic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Shaggys Marijuana flag S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shake n Bake S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shaker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shitstorm aka Big Bend S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stone Jack Baller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mike Snyder, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,441 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Sep 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Climb jugs just to the right of the shelf. Big moves on mostly jugs until the 4th bolt, then the holds get smaller and the pulls more strenuous. Clipping #5 is tough and painful. Two hard moves and some key foot placements may cinch it, though you could still fall before you clip the chains. A gym punk route, or boulderers rejoice!
.13b??? Am I high? or was this as hard as I thought?
.13b??? Am I high? or was this as hard as I thought?
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