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 ADVANCED
Crystal Lake Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace Dick T,TR 
Arete of Regret T,TR 
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 
Electric Dylan T 
Fingerbang TR 
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 
Garbage Chute T,TR 
I'm Lichen This TR 
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR 
Leaper Route, The T,TR 
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 
One Armed Swordsman, The T 
Rocktease T,TR 
Tourist Route, The T 
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 
Waste of Time T,TR 
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 

Electric Dylan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Leaman & Phil Gleason, 1965
Season: All
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Oct 21, 2011

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Johnny K leading Electric Dylan

Description 

This route heads up an interesting crack with a short overhanging section, followed shortly by an offwidth section. Atop the crack, you hit a ledge, followed by a tenuous traverse to the right using a finger crack. This traverse would be routine if it weren't for the lichen, making smearing more challenging. A couple moves to a mantle and you're up. Please be careful as there is a lot of loose rock on the belay ledge.

The second pitch heads up easy ground above the belay. There is a large rock horn (6ft tall or so) on the climber's left that can be used as a rapp anchor. There is also a class 3-4 walkoff if you continue uphill and take one of the scree ramps down to the south. You could probably build an anchor at the top of pitch 1 to avoid pitch 2.

Location 

This route is located uphill and to the right of Choss Boss Crag. It is right near the middle of Crystal Lake Crag. Basically head to Choss Boss Crag (look at the Tourist Route, I'm Lichen This pages). You will take the large scree ramp directly north/climber's right of this crag straight up. There's a little scrmably step at the end of this scree ramp... get on top of this then look to your left and BAM! That's the route!

Protection 

  • A typical rack of cams to #4, with #3 Camalots being the most useful. A few #3's on the rack and you're golden.
  • 12ft webbing and a link for the rapp anchor above pitch 2
  • We used a 70m rope to rapp from the top of pitch 2.


Photos of Electric Dylan Slideshow Add Photo
Electric Dylan topo. Pitch 2 is the dotted line to...
BETA PHOTO: Electric Dylan topo. Pitch 2 is the dotted line to...
Electric Dylan from afar
Electric Dylan from afar
Johnny K on pitch 2
Johnny K on pitch 2

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