Electric Butterfly is the corner to a roof located right of the green shed next to the bridge crossing No Name Creek. An electric wire to the left of the climb provides the name. Start in the corner with good jams under the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a horizontal crack. Climb up the widening crack to the anchors. Numerous boulder problems may be done near the base of this climb. A fun tyrolean can be set on top of this buttress across the road and creek to another broken buttress.
Standard granite rack.
Power lines look out.
BETA PHOTO: Roof and anchors.
Protection for the flake.
At the crux. heading to the flake.
Electric Moth. No Name, CO.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 20, 2004
This is a fun climb and makes for a great top rope. I once told someone who was about to climb it, it was 5.8. Afterwards he told me he thought I sandbagged it pretty hard and that it was 5.9. I would rate it either 8+ or 9- on the crux move in between after topping the flake above the horizontal crack and chimneying the crack to the shelf. The power line hanging a few feet away from the rock looks sketchy as if you could swing into it, however, it is in fact a safe distance, and you should not come close to it regardless.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 2, 2005
This is a great top rope route. Set it up by going up the right of the rock formation, walk toward the anchors behind the top of the rocks and scramble down through the crack to a big ledge to set the rope. The crux move from the flake into the chimney is challenging. Rating - definitely felt like a 5.9- on the crux move. Good fun.
|By Nick Broeder|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I'm sorry to say this is a horrible route to top rope. If you go look at the corner of the little shack 3 feet from the wall in between the creek, there is a huge dent from some person top roping and falling and swinging right into the shack. It makes too much of a swing in the beginning, and it is dangerous, just lead it.
Apr 5, 2012
It is a good toprope of you climb straight up. It's stiffer but the plumb line. Otherwise, you climb the back wet corner and can go for a bad swing if you fall out. This was one of my first few gear leads.
|By Jay Austin|
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This is a great climb with some interesting moves, felt more like a 5.9 to me with an awkward flake in the middle of the climb.