Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bridge area
Select Route:
Electric Butterfly T 
Lost Dog T 

Electric Butterfly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Electric Butterfly from the west side of the bridg...

Description 

Electric Butterfly is the corner to a roof located right of the green shed next to the bridge crossing No Name Creek. An electric wire to the left of the climb provides the name. Start in the corner with good jams under the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a horizontal crack. Climb up the widening crack to the anchors. Numerous boulder problems may be done near the base of this climb. A fun tyrolean can be set on top of this buttress across the road and creek to another broken buttress.


Protection 

Standard granite rack.



Photos of Electric Butterfly Slideshow Add Photo
Power lines look out.
Power lines look out.
Roof and anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Roof and anchors.
Protection for the flake.
Protection for the flake.
At the crux. heading to the flake.
At the crux. heading to the flake.
Electric Moth. No Name, CO.
Electric Moth. No Name, CO.
Comments on Electric Butterfly Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 20, 2004

This is a fun climb and makes for a great top rope. I once told someone who was about to climb it, it was 5.8. Afterwards he told me he thought I sandbagged it pretty hard and that it was 5.9. I would rate it either 8+ or 9- on the crux move in between after topping the flake above the horizontal crack and chimneying the crack to the shelf. The power line hanging a few feet away from the rock looks sketchy as if you could swing into it, however, it is in fact a safe distance, and you should not come close to it regardless.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 2, 2005

This is a great top rope route. Set it up by going up the right of the rock formation, walk toward the anchors behind the top of the rocks and scramble down through the crack to a big ledge to set the rope. The crux move from the flake into the chimney is challenging. Rating - definitely felt like a 5.9- on the crux move. Good fun.

By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'm sorry to say this is a horrible route to top rope. If you go look at the corner of the little shack 3 feet from the wall in between the creek, there is a huge dent from some person top roping and falling and swinging right into the shack. It makes too much of a swing in the beginning, and it is dangerous, just lead it.

By PTZ
From: Chicago/Colorado
Apr 5, 2012

It is a good toprope of you climb straight up. It's stiffer but the plumb line. Otherwise, you climb the back wet corner and can go for a bad swing if you fall out. This was one of my first few gear leads.

By Jay Austin
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great climb with some interesting moves, felt more like a 5.9 to me with an awkward flake in the middle of the climb.