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Octopus Garden
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Electric Ball 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: S. Young, D. Martin
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: John Wilder on Jul 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Electric Ball is the twin cracks on the right
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A beautiful route with several cruxes and good gear. Be bold on this one, though, as one of the lower cruxes has groundfall potential and the upper one has big air potential.

This route is easily top roped by climbing any of the routes to the left and moving the rope to the anchors on top of this route.


Location 

The obvious thin crack system on the right hand side of the wall.


Protection 

thin gear to #2 camalot



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By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Sep 1, 2013

With an overcammed BD blue or slightly undercammed yellow and a really good belay--a running backward at full throttle if you peel kind of belay--you might stay off the deck if you blow it at the lower crux. If you don't feel solid just downclimb--the gear and fall would be safe at that point.

By kerwinl
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

If you are tall or have a long reach (I am 6' with a +2 ape index), you may be able to reach up and get a bomber BD 0.5 placement with your feet barely above the gear in the pod (#2 or #3). Dont fall while clipping though as you will surely deck. If done this way you only have to make one move and I dont think you would hit the ground. Spicey!!

I would give this an R rating over, PG13, there is ground fall potential.