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Eldorado Canyon SP

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Eldorado Canyon SP 


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Location: 39.9318, -105.2813 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

As one of the world's finest and most famous climbing areas, Eldorado Canyon needs little introduction. It consists of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of gold and red. The rock quality is reminiscent of granite rather than the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona.

The largest cliff, Redgarden Wall , is a few thousand feet wide; it boasts several spectacular summits and an incredible collection of classic climbs. Many of the classic routes were put up in the 1960s by Layton Kor, along with climbers such as Pat Ament and Larry Dalke. The 1970s were primarily a time of first free ascents, spearheaded by climbers such as Steve Wunsch, Roger Briggs, Jim Erickson, and Duncan Ferguson. New activity tailed off a bit in the 1980s, though some very good routes were established.

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon can be odd and it requires some getting used to. It is primarily a traditional area, yet there is relatively little crack climbing. Friends of mine who are used to Lumpy Ridge think everything in Eldo is a sandbag, but once I got used to Eldo I started to feel more secure there than at Lumpy Ridge. Individual pitches will often require delicate face climbing and some kind of funky, inobvious traverse. Highly technical moves separated by decent rests are quite common. Old fixed gear is an Eldo staple, and can either add or subtract spice from your route depending on its quality and the availability of other pro. It enables routes such as the The Yellow Spur and the West Buttress of the Bastille (both 5.9) to offer pro-at-your-waist cruxes. On the other hand, you just know that those pins at the cruxes of climbs like Tagger (5.10) and the The Naked Edge (5.11) are not going to hold too many more 10 foot falls. One should really back up most pins whenever possible. Ultimately, skill in placing pro is very important; cracks tend to be discontinuous and incipient, and nearly all the "sport" routes require some gear as well.

Must-do beginner routes include Wind Ridge and Calypso (both 5.6) on Wind Tower. They are both a bit awkward in spots. In the 5.8 range, Ruper on Redgarden Wall and The Bastille Crack top the list. The Bulge (5.7+) on Redgarden is quite runout, but also excellent. Many people feel that The Yellow Spur (5.9) on Redgarden Wall is the best route in the Canyon. Other great routes at that grade include the West Buttress and Hair City (Bastille), Anthill Direct and The Green Spur (Redgarden Wall), and the The Unsaid (The West Ridge). 5.10 classics are everywhere; my personal favorites are Rosy Crucifixion (10a) and Outer Space (10c). Over the Hill (10b), Super Slab, Grandmother's Challenge, and Tagger (all 10c) are also great, as are many, many other routes at the grade. 5.11 offers some world-renowned classics like the The Naked Edge, Vertigo (11b), and the Northwest Corner of the Bastille (11a). 5.12 (which I have no experience with personally) seems to offer either very scary climbs such as Scary Canary (12b) or very safe climbs such as Your Mother. (12d). 5.13s are fairly rare, due to bolt restrictions, but some historic classics such as Desdichado and Rainbow Wall do exist. Addendum: A trad 5.14, Iron Monkey (freeding Lycra-Clad Donkeys), has been established.

The aforementioned Redgarden Wall holds the longest routes, but also offers great one-pitch climbs, [particularly] a little ways up the trail at a long slanting roof. The Bastille is a 350 foot high vertical cliff which rises right out of the road and offers very steep climbing. The The Wind Tower is the place to go for great beginner climbs as well as scary 5.10 routes, and the The West Ridge/Rincon offers the best concentration of one pitch routes of all grades -- usually very aesthetic crack and corner climbs. Obscure outlying areas such as Cadillac Crag, Shirt Tail Peak, and the Peanuts Walls have excellent climbing, but also involve longer approaches.

Eldo can be a very confusing place and it is helpful to at least look at a guidebook, such as Steve Levin's newest guidebook, Eldorado Canyon, A Climber's Guidebook, or Richard Rossiter's out of print, comprehensive Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon. Fred Knapp's Classic Boulder Climbs is about a third the cost, and still has most of the best routes as well as other great routes around Boulder.

Ideally, a traditional climber's road trip to Boulder should include a day at Eldo followed by a day at Lumpy Ridge (45 minutes from Boulder)-- both offer fantastic climbing, but it is hard to imagine two more different styles. Of course, if experience permits, the alpine rock climbs in nearby Rocky Mountain National Park are not to be missed, either. One can climb in Eldo at any time of year, though summer is piping hot and slick while winter is inconsistent.


Getting There 

From Denver, head N on I-25 to US 36, go to the CO Hwy 170 exit. Follow it as it curves around a new shopping complex, and go past CO Hwy 93 to the town of Eldorado Springs and to the state park.

From Boulder, take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South until you get to the first stop light after leaving Boulder. This is Eldorado Springs Dr. Take this West until you hit the town. The park entrance is at the end of the dirt road into town. Pay entry fee per vehicle to park or walk-in for less. You WILL be ticketed if you park in undesignated spots outside of the park.... The Eldorado Springs bottling company is right off the road to the park. You used to be able to get a free fill-up on your water bottle, but now it's a pay deal. What a rip, man.


Bouldering 

Eldo is home to an impressive collection of excellent & historical boulder problems. These can be found on the new Eldorado Canyon Bouldering page. Must do classics include the John Sherman testpiece Germ Free Adolescence or the nearly featureless Never Say Never. Many of Eldo's best boulders are undocumented, so an adventurous spirit can be helpful.


Fees 

Annual State Park passes cost $70 for 1st vehicle, $35 for additional vehicles. Daily fees are now $8 per vehicle. Walk-in fees are $3/person. For up to date info, click here.


Guidebooks 

Steve Levin's new, Eldorado Canyon guidebook is excellent and covers the canyon exquisitely. Recommended! If you want it, it's in local shops or if you can't find it, it's available here.


Action Committe for Eldorado 

The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) is a 501c3 non profit climber organization that is staffed by dedicated volunteers who are committed to conserving Eldorado Canyon State Park. The ACE Board of Directors is comprised of representatives from the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, the American Mountain Guides Association, and the Colorado Mountain Club, as well as unaffiliated members drawn from the climbing community. ACE has raised over $200,000 for the Park, and has organized and promoted thousands of hours of volunteer time creating and maintaining trails, planting trees, and assisting the Park in numerous other ways.
Proceeds donated to ACE are used for the Eldorado Canyon Trails Project, fixed hardware, and supporting climbers in Eldorado Canyon.

To donate or learn more information about ACE please visit: www.aceeldo.org


Fixed Hardware Replacement Program 

ACE, BCC (Boulder Climbing Community), and Eldorado State Park are working together to replace old fixed hardware in Eldorado Canyon. A 'like for like' hardware replacement policy already exists, so what we need now is a way to track progress and get some much needed work done.

ACE has established a working database of hardware which is in need of
replacement. That working list is available here.

www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/like_for_like.php

Everyone is invited to contribute to this list so we all can be made
aware of the fixed hardware progress and priorities. Just register on
the ACE website and contribute to the list. Its fast and easy.
As a reminder, a permit for 'like for like' replacement must be
secured from the Park Headquarters prior to completing any work.

ACE will gladly supply the drill, bits, prybars and any
necessary hardware to anyone wishing to do like-for-like replacements in ECSP. Contact aceeldo@googlegroups.com


Climbing Season


1,077 Total Routes


['4 Stars',90],['3 Stars',300],['2 Stars',375],['1 Star',261],['Bomb',36]
['<=5.6',79],['5.7',69],['5.8',124],['5.9',164],['5.10',210],['5.11',218],['5.12',95],['5.13',18],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',36],['V4-5',26],['V6-7',16],['V8-9',9],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eldorado Canyon SP:
Calypso   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face
Rewritten   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
The Bastille Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face
Wind Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face
Gambit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches   Shirt Tail Peak
Long John Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ...
Ruper   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
Werk Supp   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face
The Green Spur   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
The Yellow Spur   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 6 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
Hair City   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 310'   The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face
Handcracker Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...
Rosy Crucifixion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two
Blind Faith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face
Over the Hill   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route
Outer Space   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 2 pitches   The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face
Super Slab   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
The Naked Edge   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 6 pitches, 460'   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two
Vertigo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
Doub-Griffith   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches   Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
Browse More Classics in Eldorado Canyon SP

Featured Route For Eldorado Canyon SP
Bob Horan on the 3rd ascent of Practice Climb 101's 2nd pitch.

Practice Climb 101 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...
Located within the Sidewall Area, left, north of Sooberb, Sidewall and just left of False Prophet. Climb over the bulge into the right-facing corner, 5.11, up to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. The second, crux pitch, follows the thin crack in the overhanging headwall, 5.12c, to wall above, face and crack climb to the tree belay set-up....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Eldorado Canyon SP
Photos of Eldorado Canyon SP Slideshow Add Photo
Ivy on the wire 1904-08.
Ivy on the wire 1904-08.
Eldorado Canyon 5-28-07 from atop Upper Peanuts.
Eldorado Canyon 5-28-07 from atop Upper Peanuts.
Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
Eldo after a spring snow storm.  March 27, 2009.  Photo: James Beissel. <a href='http://www.jamesbeissel.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.jamesbeissel.com</a>
Eldo after a spring snow storm. March 27, 2009. ...
Springtime in Eldo.
Springtime in Eldo.
Photomosaic of Eldorado Canyon.  Shot at sunset from top of Upper Peanuts with a Nikon D90 and stitched in Autopano Pro.  Thanks to Mike Morley for help locating the ideal vantage point on top of Upper Peanuts Wall.
Photomosaic of Eldorado Canyon. Shot at sunset fr...
The Entrance to a magical place.
The Entrance to a magical place.
South Boulder Creek on a fine fall day.
South Boulder Creek on a fine fall day.
Redgarden reflection....
Redgarden reflection....
Eldo is the best.
Eldo is the best.
There's other stuff to do in Eldo besides climbing....
There's other stuff to do in Eldo besides climbing...
High above Eldo.
High above Eldo.
The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
South Boulder Creek.
South Boulder Creek.
Some of the major formations on the north side of Eldorado Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Some of the major formations on the north side of ...
Eldo after the flood. <br /> <br />© 2013 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
Eldo after the flood.

© 2013 Ken Cangi, All Right...
Eldorado Gold.  <br />Taken from the final arete pitch of "Yellow Spur".
Eldorado Gold.
Taken from the final arete pitch o...
Skip Guerin on Around the World (V?), Eldorado Canyon. <br /> <br />Photo by Carl Harrison.
Skip Guerin on Around the World (V?), Eldorado Can...
Eldo painting.
Eldo painting.
The end of the Dyno-Mart (Eldorado Market).
The end of the Dyno-Mart (Eldorado Market).
The West Ridge. 4/13/03
BETA PHOTO: The West Ridge. 4/13/03
South Boulder Creek.
South Boulder Creek.
Shirt Tail Peak, high above Eldorado Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Shirt Tail Peak, high above Eldorado Canyon.
04/05/2010 Slackliners and hardcore routes on the Bastille.
04/05/2010 Slackliners and hardcore routes on the ...
Guy highlining from The Nastille to the Petite Bastille, as seen from the Roof Routes area.
Guy highlining from The Nastille to the Petite Bas...
BETA PHOTO
Photomosaic of Eldorado Canyon.   Shot in late afternoon from the top of Upper Peanuts using a Nikon D90 and stitched in Autopano Pro.
Photomosaic of Eldorado Canyon. Shot in late aft...
The north and west faces of the Bastille. <br /> <br />5. Werk Supp <br />10. Northcutt Variation <br />13. Bastille Crack <br />14. Outer Space <br />33. West Buttress
BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille.

5. Werk...
Sunrise in Eldo.
Sunrise in Eldo.
Photomosaic of the West Ridge and Redgarden shot at sunset from the Fowler Trail.  Stitching and post processing in AutoPano Pro.
Photomosaic of the West Ridge and Redgarden shot a...
Beautiful day in Eldo. Summer 2010.
Beautiful day in Eldo. Summer 2010.
Redgarden Wall and Bastille at Dusk.  Photo by James Beissel, August 2008.
Redgarden Wall and Bastille at Dusk. Photo by Jam...
Remnants of Ivy Baldwin's high wire in the talus.  Would this be too far to repeat on a slackline??
Remnants of Ivy Baldwin's high wire in the talus. ...
Waterfall in South Boulder Creek.
Waterfall in South Boulder Creek.
Eldo's on the level.
Eldo's on the level.
A shamelessly stolen picture of Ivy Baldwin crossing the high wire (1906?) - taken from <a href='http://9teen87spostcards.blogspot.com/2011_07_01_archive.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >9teen87spostcards.blogspot.com/2011_07_01_archive.html</a>. <br /> <br />Back when the wire was up we would take a step or two out on the wire and get way more scared than we had been climbing up.  The guy had balls! <br /> <br />Note the old hotel on the upper left high on the hill.
A shamelessly stolen picture of Ivy Baldwin crossi...
Nice smear on the Black Walk.
Nice smear on the Black Walk.
Topo for Lower Peanuts. <br /> <br />Photo by Myke Komarnitsky.
Topo for Lower Peanuts.

Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
Upper Peanuts Wall topo <br />Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
Upper Peanuts Wall topo
Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
The Heist V12, a relatively new hb problem (Jorgenson) in Eldorado's Inner Canyon, in the Mole Hole aka Bat Cave, Lower West Ridge, a slot up and behind the Mineral Maze route, and Pancake Block.
The Heist V12, a relatively new hb problem (Jorgen...
Water coming down everywhere.
Water coming down everywhere.
Valentine's Day in Eldo, 2010.
Valentine's Day in Eldo, 2010.
Some cool looking piece of rock early in the morning.
Some cool looking piece of rock early in the morni...
Statistics on board next to restroom at park entrance.
BETA PHOTO: Statistics on board next to restroom at park entra...
Statistics on board next to restroom at park entrance.
BETA PHOTO: Statistics on board next to restroom at park entra...
Random photo.
Random photo.
Redgarden and the West Ridge from Continental Crag.
Redgarden and the West Ridge from Continental Crag...
Fowler trail fish eye.
Fowler trail fish eye.
Bouldering in Eldorado West on Skyeye Arete.
Bouldering in Eldorado West on Skyeye Arete.
Eldorado Canyon is a bouldering paradise.
Eldorado Canyon is a bouldering paradise.
Quite the stare.... right down the Naked Edge edge... from about 3500 feet above.  Taken with 50mm medium format digital aerial mapping camera system.
Quite the stare.... right down the Naked Edge edge...
Burt - I cleaned up the exposure on your picture - great photo!
Burt - I cleaned up the exposure on your picture -...
The Wind Tower and Bastille from The Bulge.
The Wind Tower and Bastille from The Bulge.
Eldo as seen from the air. You can clearly see the north face of The Bastille, although the sun was obscured by the sun on this cold and windy day. Not the best light, but you take what you can get when getting a free plane ride over Boulder. - Thanks Rick for the ride!
Eldo as seen from the air. You can clearly see the...
L->R The Bastille, Whale's Tail (backside), and the South Buttress of Redgarden Wall, as seen from the Wind Tower. Climbers can be seen on <a href='/v/the-bulge/105748804'>The Bulge</a>.
L->R The Bastille, Whale's Tail (back...
Sunset in Eldo in 2001. Redgarden Wall gets the last light as the West Ridge fades away. Photo by Tony Bubb.
Sunset in Eldo in 2001. Redgarden Wall gets the la...
A panoramic of Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, Rincon and Shirt Tail Peak from the Rattlesnake Gulch Trailhead. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2001.
BETA PHOTO: A panoramic of Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, Rinco...
Redgarden Wall from straight above... about 3500ft up.
Redgarden Wall from straight above... about 3500ft...
Eldo from the West.
Eldo from the West.
View of the canyon from the Fowler Trail.
View of the canyon from the Fowler Trail.
Can you name this route?  Hint: This pic is from the FA in 1987.
Can you name this route? Hint: This pic is from t...
Map courtesy of 'ACE' - Celebrate Eldorado..! <a href='http://aceeldo.org/brochure' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >aceeldo.org/brochure</a>
BETA PHOTO: Map courtesy of 'ACE' - Celebrate Eldorado..! http...
Glider View
Glider View
Eldo in 1974 - note the high wire at the top of the photo.
Eldo in 1974 - note the high wire at the top of th...
Comments on Eldorado Canyon SP Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2013
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 12, 2002

This place is the best for novices like myself in the front range. None of the routes are so inaccessible or epic as to scare away someone who's never been there before. And the east crack of the Whale's Tail should be required for every new leader.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 12, 2002

It is $50 for a Colorado State Park Season Pass. Good for the calendar year at ANY Colorado State Park. [$6] for a day fee per car. I believe the new visitor center, and other improvements were paid for out the State Lottery Funds allocated to Parks i.e.

By Hayden Yurkanis
Sep 17, 2002

Screw that $50 bucks and to hell with pay-to-play. Why aren't we challenging the state of our park??? Think about it this way--how would you feel if "they" started charging $50 bucks for a season pass to Lumpy and built a road up to Sundance with a parking lot and porta-john at The Book?? Fuck that road through our canyon!! don't you just love it when you top out on the yellow spur and look down and see some dip-shit below in a candy-red PT Cruiser.

Take that 50 bucks and use it to destroy that bathroom and that road--restore the area and leave a small maintained trail, and build the parking lot OUTSIDE the canyon!!

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 24, 2002

Jay, keep in mind that in the late 70s what is now Eldorado Canyon State Park almost became a gravel quarry, but the State stepped in and bought the property off the Fowler family (for something like $500K). Yes, some of the "improvements" are overblown, but the alternative would have been grim. $50 is a steal for use of this park for an entire year.

By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2002

The road was built in the canyon about a hundred years ago.

By Michael Junk
Jan 7, 2003

A awesome climbing area with a great climbers atmosphere and countless number of routes at all levels. Great place for a day outing.

By Anonymous Coward
May 3, 2003

I moved to the Denver area 5 years ago......I don't care if they charged $20 a day to get in there......NEVER forgot what you have at your fingertips.

Eldo is Eldo-what more can you say? Wolrd class to say the very least, world's best in some opinions.

It's on $50-and unlike many other payments that we all make, this one is most likely going to a very worthwhile service. Consider your payment as your "good deed of the day".

This state is heaven-don't forget it. If you don't agree....well, don't let the door hit you in the a$$.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Apr 10, 2004

Concern: Last week I went up to the Green Spur area to knock it off before the rain. On my hike up, I heard "falling" sounds. Lots of boulders knocking together. The occasional sickening "thump." After hiking up aways I encountered a few Europeans (by the sound of them), mostly teenagers. We chatted for a few moments and I asked them if everyone was okay in their party. Sure were, so I moved on, only to see them resume their little game of tossing boulders down the talus slope!!! I don't think I need to address how dangerous this is on this website. Taking out a whole family of hikers is a serious possibility. Instead, I would like to bring this to the community's attention. Keep your heads up, eyes and ears open, and bring a pistol for pest control when you climb... If anyone notices such activity in the future, bite the bullet and go alert the rangers of this activity. Missing two hours of climbing is a small price to pay for the safety of others in the canyon IMHO.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Apr 13, 2004

AC, by the time I figured out what was going on, I was just short of being on belay and they were across the talus/scree just west of the Yellow Spur start. My partner and I yelled as loudly and clearly as we could essentially to knock it off. Threw in some colorful language so they got the point. Something about killing someone. Honestly, I was so mad, I couldn't really remember. They immediately quit, so there wasn't a whole lot of point going to confront them then. Had I seen it happen on the approach I would have turned around. I don't think I made the right decision of simply yelling (practice what I preach, I know), but avoidance of confrontation is my MO. Hopefully others will learn from my bad judgement.

By DanMoore
Apr 30, 2004

FYI: season passes are now 55 dollars.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2004

Check this web site out for a list of accidents in Eldo. These are taken verbatum from Accidents in North American Mtneering and other sources. Also has accidents in Boulder Canyon and other areas if you hunt around the site:

www.fourteeners.freeservers.com/Accidents/ELDORADO.html

By Joe Collins
Nov 24, 2004

Has anyone heard a rumor of a new Eldo guidebook in the works? I heard rumors of a Sharp End full-color guidebook, like the David Bloom Indian Creek guide. Anyone know anything about this?

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 27, 2005

So climbing up on Wind Ridge I see this huge ass cable and I'm thinkin "what the hell is that for" so I look it up. some old dude used to tight rope between there and the Bastille. I'm not aware if the cables are still there on the Bastille but if they are why not highline it?

By ac
Nov 28, 2005

I am guessing the State of CO doesn't support the highwire antics. Maybe you should ask a ranger for their position on it.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 30, 2005

I saw someone grate across the original Ivy Baldwin cable in the early '70s. They had to wrap a chain around it due to the large diameter. You guys who are asking about setting up a high line: the Parkies will never let it happen. That said, what kind of rope or cable would you use and how would you set it up?

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2007

ROC wrote:
WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.

A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.

By Lee Willcockson
From: Denver, CO
May 8, 2007

What exactly is the impetus for the new speed bumps just after the ranger station? I saw a number of two-wheel drive cars bottom out on those monsters; is speeding really that big a problem in the canyon?

By Eldorado Canyon
May 28, 2007

Hi Liam,

The "speed bumps" you refer to are actually water bars, created to divert water to the appropriate storm drains. If you have any other questions or issues, feel free to contact one of us at the park.

By Eldorado Canyon
Jul 12, 2007

A seasonal wildlife closure on Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack has been lifted two weeks early due to the four chicks fledging. The routes that are now open include: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches), and The Sidetrack.

Eldorado Canyon enforces climbing closures in order to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s prairie falcons. Eldorado Canyon State Park staff and raptor monitor volunteers would like to thank the rock climbing community for adhering to the closure, ensuring another successful breeding year for these amazing creatures.

You Can Help Us Protect Eldo’s Falcons

The walls of Eldorado Canyon provide critical breeding habitat for birds of prey, such as our nesting pair of prairie falcons. Human disturbances (such as climbing) near the nest can cause abandonment and nest failure. As human actions and breeding and prey habitat loss continue to impact prairie falcon populations, it is even more essential that visitors to their homes respect these temporary restrictions. If you would like to view the nest with a ranger or a volunteer raptor monitor, please contact the park at (303) 494-3943.
Thank you for helping protect Eldorado Canyon’s wildlife!

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 14, 2008

Hey Eldo climbers,

A quick reminder for anyone wanting to apply for installing a new bolted route, or a new bolted rappel anchor, in Eldorado Canyon, this spring:

Please have your application finished and sent to ACE by April 1st.

Fro more details, see the Action Committee for Eldorado website:

www.aceeldo.org/

Thanks,
Crusher Bartlett

By Jeff Siefman
From: Portland Oregon
Mar 24, 2008

Does anyone have any old hand drawn topos from back in the day? Or know where to find them? I need a help from the old school cats! Please email me. siefmanj@mac.com...

By Lyndsy
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 22, 2008

Hey All Eldorado locals-

I am chillin in Laramie, WY- and my partner and I are thinking about checking out the EC...? We like trad- and love crack...any suggestions? Is this a good weekend to go? Is there camping, should I buy a guide book? Any info would be super helpful!
Thanks

By Chris Archer
Nov 17, 2008

First Route in Eldorado?

2010 will be the 75th anniversary of the first rock climb in the Gunks: The Old Route at Millbrook, FA by Fritz Weissner, 1935. This got me thinking: what was the first rock climb in Eldorado? As near as I can tell from the guides, the Bastille Crack may have that designation. Jim Erickson placed the first ascent in the early 1950s by US Army climbers. After that there are several routes done in 1956, the most challenging being the Redgarden Route. Does anyone have any information on any climbing routes in Eldorado prior to this?

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Nov 18, 2008

Clearly, with the ascents on the Maiden and steep/overhanging faces of the Third Flatiron, high angle rock climbing in the Boulder area was alive and well in the late '40s and early '50s. Yes, we have the Bastille and Redguard from the mid-'50s, but if there was high quality climbing going on in the Flatirons in the late '40s did anything get done in Eldorado which has been lost over time?

Bruce

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Dec 6, 2008

I'm wondering what the route is you always pass by on your way to the Redgarden wall, before the roof routes. It's the steeply overhanging cave on your right with maybe 6 fixed draws and an anchor about 40 ft off the deck. I don't even know where to look for it on MP....

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Dec 6, 2008

Phil, It's sounds like you are refering to the The Monument. It's under the "Whales Tail" section.

By Matt V
From: Denver, CO
Jan 5, 2009

PLEASE HELP! LOST GEAR AT RINCON WALL ON MONDAY, DEC. 29TH, 2008.
Please contact me at mattvodjansky@yahoo.com if you picked up this gear.
Thank you!

By dyingdream
Apr 8, 2009

Found rope on Redgarden Wall around Green Spur, left of Yellow Spur. Comment on this website if it is yours and I can easily return to it. Give description and better description of how you left it. I assume it got snagged when you were pulling it from rappeling.

By max gibbons
From: AZ y TO
Apr 26, 2009

Y'all are way too verbose in your Eldo information. I appreciate the time such tedious documentation must've required, but beta should be more straightforward than this.

By Fred Knapp
Jul 1, 2009

A sample pdf of the upcoming Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide by Steve Levin is available for download at www.sharpendbooks.com. The 448 page book is due in late September and will retail for $39.95. Enjoy.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 2, 2009

448 pages, yowzers. There goes the light and fast theory! Hopefully it will still fit in the purses, er uh packs, that some of my friends carry.... As much as I hate climbing at Eldo, I am actually looking forward to getting this book. Thanks for all of the hard work on this, Steve and Co.

By Madaleine
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 31, 2009

PLS. RETURN STATIC ROPE FROM BASTILLE.

Hi. I left a new, bright yellow, 200ft NE Static rope on top of the Bastille (deep down in a recess where the routes Outer Space, Hairstyles and Attitudes, etc. top-out). Please return this rope to me. I left it up there over the last 2 weeks as I've been hoping to get back to re-bolt a route up there. While I appreciate it being out of some of this rain and didn't mean for it to be up there for so long, the rangers didn't take it and I need it back NOW. Please return this to the ranger station or park entrance OR email me: Madaleines@gmail.com.

Thank you.

By Fred Knapp
Aug 13, 2009

Yes, 448 pages does change the light and fast theory if you haul the book. We're offering a free eBook if you pre-purchase the print guide. You can print out just the pages you need for the multi-pitch outings, plus you'll have the info right away. Oh, and 10% of all pre-orders goes to ACE.

By The Good Life Denver
Nov 11, 2009

We want to congratulate Steve Levin, Fred Knapp, and Sharp End Books on what we believe may be the best rock climbing guidebook ever written--Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide. The book is amazingly thorough, not only (!) offering you over 1500 route descriptions, most of which are accompanied by high-definition color photo route overlays, but also offering a wealth of information on the history of climbing in the canyon, including details on the first ascents of many of the routes in the book. The book is simply phenomenal.

Our review of it can be found here: www.thegoodlifedenver.com/2009/11/11/good-guidebooks-rock-cl>>>

By Adrian Weaver
From: Buena Vista Co
Feb 11, 2010

While climbing Ruper today I left my pack and jacket at the bottom of the lower ramp. When I returned, they were nowhere to be found. If anyone finds them, I would love to get them back. It would definitely be worth some beers or something. The pack is a black and blue Jansport with a lot of marmot chew, a broken buckle, and a busted zipper on top. The Jacket is a sky blue soft shell. My email is aweaver@mymail.mines.edu. Thanks!

By Chris Archer
May 17, 2010

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE. 17 May 2010.

The seasonal bird closure on Redgarden Wall, from The Naked Edge (pitch 3 - top) through Sidetrack, has been lifted because there has been no nesting activity in the area. All of Regarden Wall is now open to climbing.

By Chris Archer
Jun 2, 2010

Great news for all you aficionados of Eldorado history:

Dudley Chelton, the photographer who painstakingly documented the free climbing scene in Eldorado in the 1970s has posted many of his pictures from that era on his website.

You can check it out at: chelton.zenfolio.com/p342334459

Thanks for posting these killer shots, Dudley!

By Scott Rice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 7, 2010

Hey all,

Somewhat new to the Eldo scene, yet climbed here a few times and was THOROUGHLY impressed with the professionalism and dedication that Eldo advents had exhibited. Whether it be friendliness of the locals, despite the fact that we were jumping on their classics on our first trip, or the cherry descents that can be made in the tightest of climbing shoes with ease. All I can say I guess is thank you to those who cherish and maintain this amazing canyon for all.

I do, however, have another question. I am at the Air Force Academy in CSprings and am able to go out this next weekend...which means I obviously choose Eldo. But we are short on funds (write your congressmen if you think we should get paid more than $100 a month!!) and are probably going to have to camp.

So, the question is whether we can suck it up in sleeping bags, or if we should try to crash a sorority at CU for the weekend.

Any advice or insight would be appreciated. And I apologize for the rant.

Cheers,

SR

By Shawn Greenfield
Jul 15, 2011

LOST: On Thursday, July 14th, I lost an Invicta watch. It has a blue face and has a lot of sentimental meaning. It would mean so much to me if someone found it and could return it. It was most likely left at the Bastille Crack or over by Calypso possibly somewhere in between. Please contact me if you have it: sgreenfield82@yahoo.com

By Simon H.
Jul 17, 2011

Hey guys, I found an abandoned helmet at the bottom of the Bastille yesterday afternoon, 7/17. If you can tell me what kind it is and any identifying marks it may have, it's yours....

By Terry O'Donnell
From: Boulder, Co
Dec 21, 2011

A young lady, Selma Hafezbegovic, was involved in a strange climbing accident on June 15th, 2010. She was standing on the ledge just to the right of the large boulder at the base of Calypso when either part of the ledge gave way or a block just above the ledge came down. What she wants is a picture showing that area taken before the accident date to show what was there to help figure out what happened! Does anyone have a shot they could post or email to her?

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Dec 21, 2011

Terry,
This photo seems to have been taken March 2010, and I believe shows the area you're interested in....

www.mountainproject.com/v/106715969

By Terry O'Donnell
From: Boulder, Co
Dec 26, 2011

Derek!
Thanks so much for your photo! I think it shows the exact area that she is concerned with! I really appreciate your coming up with it! Is there a chance you could email it to me? Terry

By Ben Weisman
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2012

I found a pair of shoes at the base of Chockstone today right after a group left for the day. Shoot me a message with how many people were in your group and the brand of shoes, and come pick them up!

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jul 30, 2012

The annual pass seems like a small price to pay for some amazing climbing. That is cheaper than a Gunks pass, and it's per car, right?

By Andy "RED" King
From: Eldorado Springs
Aug 23, 2012

If anyone is planning a trip to Eldorado Canyon and is traveling from far and doesn't want to pay steep hotel rates, I live in the canyon and have room in my yard for a group or maybe two to camp. Please feel free to email me at andrew.king2012@yahoo.com as I check that more often, or just message me here on MP for more details.

Andy
RLTW!

By Jonathan Cooke
From: New Britain, CT
Dec 1, 2012

I'm looking for climbing partner(s) for December 2-6 in Eldorado Canyon. Any takers? I'm an experienced trad climber, love cracks, but a little out of shape. Would enjoy climbing some classic moderates and maybe warm up to a harder route or two.

By Fred Knapp
Apr 6, 2013

UPGRADE YOUR ELDO BOOK: Big discount for previous owners of Steve Levin's guide.
The new Eldorado Canyon guidebook arrives on Tues or Weds. It's not a major new edition -- more of an update with about 30 new routes and corrections. If you're like me, though, you love new books. Sharp End is offering an upgrade program -- cut out the bottom right corner of page 447 of your guide (the green square that contains our URL and address) and send it to the address listed with a check for $25 and we'll send you the new edition.

By Patrick Kehoe
From: Fort Collins
Sep 2, 2013

Hang your packs while you climb, damn chipmunks will eat your lunch!

By Chris Beh
Sep 12, 2013

Waterfalls during 9/12/13 flood event!
Waterfalls during 9/12/13 flood event!

By Jordan Moore
From: Boulder, co
Sep 15, 2013

Facebook page for Eldorado flood damage clean-up.

https://www.facebook.com/events/158172447724170/