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Eldorado Canyon Bouldering

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Accordion Boulder 
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Creek Slab  
Diamond Head Bouldering 
East Draw 
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Freight Train Boulder, The 
Fringe Boulder 
Gill Boulder, The 
Hip Hop Boulder 
Horn Boulder 
Mile Stone 
Milton Boulder 
Mitten Boulder 
Musical Boulders (aka- Eldorado Canyon Trail Boulders ), The 
Punk Rock  
Pyramid Boulder 
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Splish Boulder 
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West Ridge Boulders 
West World 

Eldorado Canyon Bouldering 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.92981, -105.2881 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 131,347
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Apr 15, 2010
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A boulder across the Milton Boulder. (On the left ...
  • ECSP is surrounded by private property parcels, OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" and railroad tracks. Many of the outlying areas surrounding ECSP have approaches that can bring these issues into play. MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Eldorado Canyon State Park is an iconic destination for domestic and international climbers alike who wish to test themselves on standard-setting multi-pitch routes established in the infancy of free climbing in America. Of course, ECSP has quietly developed a lesser-appreciated reputation as an immense bouldering resource too, with bulletproof polished sandstone and some quiet out-of-the-way spots to pull down on some of the nicest rock on the Front Range. ECSP has one of the highest concentrations of quality lines on the Front Range, as it's sometimes-polished rock lends itself to purer and more obvious lines than the more abundant sandstone of the Flatirons, Flagstaff, Sanitas, Carter Lake, etc. If you're familiar with the Millenium Boulder in Matthew Winters Open Space Park near Morrison, its the same stone. If your familiar with Rotary Park on the shores of Horsetooth Reservoir, the rock is of similar quality and some of it is better.

    Essentially everyone who knows anything about bouldering is aware of some of ECSP's historic "king lines", e.g., John Sherman's Germ Free Adolescence, Steve Mammen's Never Say Never and many have heard stories of Dave Graham's confounding testpiece Suspension of Disbelief, just to name a few. ECSP is an incredible resource at all the Vermin grades and the wealth of bouldering opportunities that exist in and around the ECSP are far from tapped out ... even in 2010. If you have a willingness to hike far enough, new lines are waiting.

    The general sentiment I've heard expressed by my fellow boulderers is that they want the bouldering experience in around ECSP to remain an exploratory one with some of the adventure feel that areas that have been fully covered by guidebooks lack. That said, a number of well-known and well-traveled boulders are already on the site. The administrators asked me to prepare this summary page and, now that it's done, they will attempt to move and organize the ECSP boulders already on the site under this Area. For the well-established stuff in or essentially in ECSP proper, e.g., the East Draw, the inner canyon boulders, the roadside boulders, West World, the stuff located within a stone's throw of the Eldorado Canyon Trail, as well as the Musicals and the draws that arch to the northeast below the Musicals ... it is my hope that we can organize this stuff fairly quickly so it becomes a useful resource.

    At this time and going forward, it will be deemed inappropriate to add problems and boulders to this area located on the front and back of Eldorado Mountain to THIS area. This includes Cloud Nine, anything else on the flanks of Eldorado Mountain and the Mickey Meadows, all of which should be more properly added to the section for Eldorado Mountain, if at all.

    Have fun exploring this magical place with tons of fascinating history made by interesting characters. When exploring the outlying areas, you will inevitably come across obvious lines and you won't know who put it up, when they put it up, what it's called or graded. Nevermind all that crap, just enjoy yourself!


    Getting There 

    From Denver, head N on I-25 to US 36, go to the CO Hwy 170 exit in Lousiville/Superior. Follow it as it curves around a new shopping complex and becomes Marshall Mesa Road, and continue 10 miles or so crossing over CO Hwy 93 to the town of Eldorado Springs where you enter to the state park.

    From Boulder, take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South until you get to the first stop light after leaving Boulder. This is Eldorado Springs Dr. Take this West until you hit the town. The park entrance is at the end of the dirt road into town. Pay entry fee per vehicle to park or walk-in for less. You WILL be ticketed if you park in undesignated spots outside of the park.... The Eldorado Springs bottling company is right off the road to the park. You used to be able to get a free fill-up on your water bottle, but not anymore.


    Climbing Season


    95 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',33],['V4-5',26],['V6-7',16],['V8-9',9],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eldorado Canyon Bouldering:
    Northeast Corner   V0 4     Boulder   The Gill Boulder
    Southeast Slab   V0+ 4+     Boulder   The Gill Boulder
    North Dihedral   V1 5     Boulder, 20'   The Gill Boulder
    Gill Face   V2 5+ PG13     Boulder, 15'   The Gill Boulder
    North Face Mantle   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   The Gill Boulder
    South Face   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Gill Boulder
    Undercling Problem   V3 6A     Boulder   Milton Boulder
    Eggman   V3 6A     Boulder, 18'   The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : The East Egg
    The Buddha Belly   V3 6A     Boulder   The Freight Train Boulder
    Milton   V4 6B     Boulder   Milton Boulder
    Germ Free Adolescence   V5 6C     Boulder   West World : Germ Free Boulder
    The Walrus   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   The Musical Boulders (aka- ... : The East Egg
    Horan Face   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   The Gill Boulder
    Pig Dog   V6 7A     Boulder   East Draw : Center Ring Wall
    Traverse   V6 7A     Boulder   East Draw : Low Traverse Boulder
    Chubby Bunny   V7 7A+     Boulder   The Freight Train Boulder
    Germ Free Adolescent SDS   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder   West World : Germ Free Boulder
    Here Comes Sickness aka Germ Free Adolescent Right Sit   V8 7B PG13     Boulder, 15'   West World : Germ Free Boulder
    The Infinite    V9 7C     Boulder   East Draw : Center Ring Wall
    Resonated   V9 7C     Boulder, 16'   Water Rock
    Browse More Classics in Eldorado Canyon Bouldering

    Featured Route For Eldorado Canyon Bouldering
    Pulling off the one arm, finger lock lever on Kiss of Life.

    Kiss of Life V9-10 7C+ CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : River Block
    This climbs out the east overhang of the block to its summit. The crux is height-dependent, although the mantle is a crux as well. From the ramp, one must compress out and get a tip fingerlock with the left hand, set into the lock, hold the lever, and one arm pull through and reach to the sloper shelf above. Then you must swing out onto the mantle shelf and mantle utilizing a small layaway crimper out left. Stand onto the shelf, and continue on easier rock to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Eldorado Canyon Bouldering
    Photos of Eldorado Canyon Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
    Matty Karasik putting the finishing touches on Smokejumper on the Sinus Block.
    Matty Karasik putting the finishing touches on Smo...
    Near the West entrance to the Park.
    Near the West entrance to the Park.
    Not sure if it has a name or grade, but it's in the main entrance, in the upper lot....
    Not sure if it has a name or grade, but it's in th...
    Comments on Eldorado Canyon Bouldering Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2014
    By Monomaniac
    Administrator
    From: Morrison, CO
    Apr 15, 2010

    Many thanks to Chip for getting this page started! If anybody has ideas on how to better organize the boulders on this page, please contact myself or Chip.

    By Chad_N
    From: SEKI, CA
    Apr 15, 2010

    Awesome job, Chip! Thanks for the info.

    Can't wait to do a little bouldering there...and to climb some trad as well.

    By Helldorado
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2010

    Keep Eldo bouldering free. It's much better off without names, grades and directions.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 11, 2011

    That exploration aspect of bouldering in Eldo West may have hit a bump in the road. A boulderer was recently escorted out of the vicinity of Midnight Frightening after being informed that this was private property.

    By Helldorado
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 14, 2011

    I wasn't aware how much of this stuff was on private property. I'm guessing the landowner in question has the ridiculously huge red mansion past the visitor center. It's not surprising that a routesetter was told to leave, as gym rats are not known to be discrete or respectful when bouldering outdoors.

    Anyways, I don't see any good reason to publicize this sensitive area, some of the more popular boulders are being severely trashed by ignoramuses. It would be best just to delete the bouldering section and keep these blocks off the radar, away from the prying eyes of the public. Peter, how have you contributed to Eldowest bouldering, aside from publicizing it on you blog and what place do you have in this conversation?

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 14, 2011

    Helldorado, I think that a more positive approach would be to figure out what the status on the ground actually is first. Mike McHugh and I have emailed about this already and may be working with the Access Fund, The BCC, and the FCC on what to do next.

    Comments about the house of the possible landowner or characterizing the boulderer who was asked to leave as a gym rat only obscure the central issue which is whether climbers can visit these boulders. In the Flatirons, everything is on public land and the genie left the bottle a long long time ago.

    By Peter Dodge
    From: Duluth, MN
    Jun 24, 2013

    Where is the route called "The Grouch" seen in this video?

    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jun 24, 2013

    Peter, to my knowledge that is The Grinch on the Gill Boulder, but I could be wrong. Looks like it though.

    By Chip Phillips
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 29, 2013

    Mr. Dodge, The Grinch is a variation to the Grouch ... see someone like jaeger's 8a.nu card for specifics.

    peace

    By bhoran
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 14, 2014

    The bouldering in Eldorado Canyon can't be beat, get the guide, Best of Boulder Bouldering, or Bouldering Colorado, the originals. Here is author Bob Horan on his static version of Never Say Never, V11.
    Never Say Never

    .

    By Jeremy Jennings
    Jul 15, 2014

    Does anyone know the name of the climb on the right of the boulder across the road from the Milton Boulder?

    Does anyone know the name of this problem? It's on the boulder across the road from the Milton Boulder.
    Does anyone know the name of this problem? It's on the boulder across the road from the Milton Boulder.