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Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread
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Oct 26, 2012
willeslinger wrote:
Jon Moen's point about pre conceived notions affecting our actual hands on experience is a great point. Index Washington is one of my favorite crags to climb at, and I think it's extra special for me because I didn't know it existed until two days before I first climbed there.


Thanks. I really think that the biggest issue with Eldo isn't choss, runouts, one-move-wonders, crowds, or any of the other things that people gripe about. The biggest issue is hype. It is an amazing local crag, but it is kind of the runt of the litter when you throw it in the the "world-class" pool. Unforetunately, it has so much history and hype that it has weaseled its way into a weight class where it doesn't belong. If compared to Yosemite, the Verdon, etc, Eldo is a pathetic little turd. But when compared to other "local's areas" in the US, it sure as hell has Pinnacles (California) beat.

Eldo only sucks when compared to places that it doesn't deserved to be compared to. When put into the right weight class, it is a pretty rad little canyon.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
34 points
Oct 27, 2012
Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.
camhead wrote:
The Red. The climbing is ok, but the scene has made me stop loving it for several years. Other crags I think are overhyped are Reimer's, HCR, and all of the Front Range except Splatte.


Thanks for sparing the SPlatte! Although there is a lot of choss there too haha!
Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,256 points
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
MIYG wrote:
Dude... pass me that blunt yo...

Absolutely
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Oct 27, 2012
approach to the Grand
Its a bummer that almost this entire posting is about areas you don't want to climb in or you're trashing the climbing experiences you have had in these now disliked areas. This is really sad for those who have trashed because I think that climbing is %50 the places we get to go and %50 everything else we get to do. I'd say that the places we visit make up a majority of climbing's appeal. I did however just notice the full title for this forum being "Eldo sux AKA the crag blasphemer's thread" so maybe I just should have not clicked on it.
Either way, bummer.
Jon S.
Jon C. Sullivan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2010
31 points
Administrator
Oct 27, 2012
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
Glenn Schuler wrote:
Yeah, but it's an ultra classic chosspile!


Exactly!

and Hell Cave in American Fork, UT. dingy nighmarish greaseball slapping..
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
Oct 27, 2012
Mashers Tower
stopped reading at 'Eldo sucks' Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Jon C. Sullivan wrote:
Its a bummer that almost this entire posting is about areas you don't want to climb in or you're trashing the climbing experiences you have had in these now disliked areas. This is really sad for those who have trashed because I think that climbing is %50 the places we get to go and %50 everything else we get to do. I'd say that the places we visit make up a majority of climbing's appeal. I did however just notice the full title for this forum being "Eldo sux AKA the crag blasphemer's thread" so maybe I just should have not clicked on it. Either way, bummer. Jon S.


Damnit. You know, I think you've all figured out my plan. I wasn't setting out to simply ask a question about crags that you may not just LOVE but everyone else seems to. I was trying to recruit fellow saboteurs to set off a dirty bomb in Eldorado Canyon State Park so no one could ever climb again, ever. Damnit. The Harlem Globetrotters didn't even get to join in before you ruined it.
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
you are
you are
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Oct 27, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Boulder Canyon
Rumney
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Administrator
Oct 27, 2012
El Chorro
I climbed there once. It was fun. I suppose if I lived in Boulder I'd probably climb there a lot. But I don't think I'd ever live close enough to make another trip. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Oct 27, 2012
To have a place like eldo in ones back yard and then complain of its quality...

Try living in Texas you might appreciate it more.
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
Oct 27, 2012
frankstoneline: "this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain"

yes there is rain....but what about Leavenworth....and the lederhosen?
CaptainPoopyPants
Joined Mar 12, 2012
62 points
Oct 27, 2012
Mountain Bike Action!
All Killer No Filler wrote:
The New. It rains all the goddamn time, it's like hooking up with Salma Hayek and finding out she's on the rag 29 days a month. Annoying, though the good days are unbeatable.


Now that's funny!

As for the odds, that's a chance I'd be willing to take.
richard magill
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,678 points
Oct 27, 2012
wankel7 wrote:
To have a place like eldo in ones back yard and then complain of its quality... Try living in Texas you might appreciate it more.


Amen, brother!

We visited Eldo for the first time recently and felt like I was in climbing heaven!
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
Oct 27, 2012
Nick Stayner wrote:
Is that why people from Boulder always wind up in Tensleep :) ? But seriously... rock climbing is such a diverse sport with so many unique experiences to be had. Each crag has something to offer. In that sense, i've never visited a crag I didn't like.

I've climbed in many areas in the west and I've never found one I didn't like either. That said, they are all falling apart, Eldo has a special place in my heart and I continue to climb there every chance I get, even weekends if that's all I can get.
will smith
From boulder
Joined Jan 16, 2008
41 points
Oct 27, 2012
Lowering out on the Mescalito... '94
Eldo is world class... on top of that, one of a kind!! Drew Spaulding
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2009
3,198 points
Oct 27, 2012
I agree with Milt. Eldo is world class! daniel hackett
Joined Oct 3, 2012
0 points
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd
willeslinger wrote:
I don't particularly love Eldorado Canyon SP, but most of my friends think it's pretty much the greatest climbing area of all time ever to have sprung out of the earth's crust. What's that area for you? The ultra classic place to climb that you feel bashful for even slightly disparaging, but in your heart of hearts you just don't absolutely love.


For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,223 points
Oct 27, 2012
Rrrrr
Whale's Tail, East Slab -- Yeah Baby! Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Kenan wrote:
For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?


What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag?

Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you.

I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 27, 2012
breich de la meije
Milt and Hacky are high. Eldo is a pile of broken rocks. C.Ball
From Breckenridge, Co
Joined Apr 24, 2007
10 points
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd
Colonel Mustard wrote:
What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag? Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you. I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.


I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree?

I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,223 points
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Kenan wrote:
I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree? I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.


If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there? Personally, I don't waste my time in areas I don't like. Sounds like an exercise in masochism!
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 27, 2012
CaptainPoopyPants wrote:
frankstoneline: "this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain" yes there is rain....but what about Leavenworth....and the lederhosen?


Oh Leavenworth is sweet. If you like near vertical hiking to climb one good pitch and then do a bunch of shite 'cause we're already here I guess'. Also the tourism in that town is horrid. You can't buy groceries without wishing you were dead by a lederhosen noose.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd
Colonel Mustard wrote:
If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there?


You wouldn't - and that's exactly the point! Maybe someone climbed an obscure chosspile or two and decided to never go back. Maybe they ran across a clan of douchebags that ruined their day. Maybe they were actually on an uber-classic route but got off route or stormed off and it put them in a foul mood. Maybe they went to an area that had a great reputation for overhanging sport routes and climbed a vertical trad route and decided that the area sucks. Or maybe they actually put in multiple days climbing highly-rated routes at that area and decided it actually sucks - for their taste, their style of climbing, their style of rock, ...whatever. It's that last scenario that I would actually find the most interesting in the case of Eldo. So I'm trying to tease it out.

Is anyone's opinion that Eldo sucks based on a substantial amount of climbing highly-rated routes there? If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all.

It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING

Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah
Kenan
Joined Apr 15, 2010
1,223 points


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