Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 3 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Oct 26, 2012
willeslinger wrote:
Jon Moen's point about pre conceived notions affecting our actual hands on experience is a great point. Index Washington is one of my favorite crags to climb at, and I think it's extra special for me because I didn't know it existed until two days before I first climbed there.


Thanks. I really think that the biggest issue with Eldo isn't choss, runouts, one-move-wonders, crowds, or any of the other things that people gripe about. The biggest issue is hype. It is an amazing local crag, but it is kind of the runt of the litter when you throw it in the the "world-class" pool. Unforetunately, it has so much history and hype that it has weaseled its way into a weight class where it doesn't belong. If compared to Yosemite, the Verdon, etc, Eldo is a pathetic little turd. But when compared to other "local's areas" in the US, it sure as hell has Pinnacles (California) beat.

Eldo only sucks when compared to places that it doesn't deserved to be compared to. When put into the right weight class, it is a pretty rad little canyon.

FLAG
By Monty
From Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Just a teaser
camhead wrote:
The Red. The climbing is ok, but the scene has made me stop loving it for several years. Other crags I think are overhyped are Reimer's, HCR, and all of the Front Range except Splatte.


Thanks for sparing the SPlatte! Although there is a lot of choss there too haha!

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
MIYG wrote:
Dude... pass me that blunt yo...

Absolutely

FLAG
By Jon C. Sullivan
From Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2012
approach to the Grand
Its a bummer that almost this entire posting is about areas you don't want to climb in or you're trashing the climbing experiences you have had in these now disliked areas. This is really sad for those who have trashed because I think that climbing is %50 the places we get to go and %50 everything else we get to do. I'd say that the places we visit make up a majority of climbing's appeal. I did however just notice the full title for this forum being "Eldo sux AKA the crag blasphemer's thread" so maybe I just should have not clicked on it.
Either way, bummer.
Jon S.

FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Pure bliss..
Glenn Schuler wrote:
Yeah, but it's an ultra classic chosspile!


Exactly!

and Hell Cave in American Fork, UT. dingy nighmarish greaseball slapping..

FLAG
By CJC
Oct 27, 2012
stopped reading at 'Eldo sucks'

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Jon C. Sullivan wrote:
Its a bummer that almost this entire posting is about areas you don't want to climb in or you're trashing the climbing experiences you have had in these now disliked areas. This is really sad for those who have trashed because I think that climbing is %50 the places we get to go and %50 everything else we get to do. I'd say that the places we visit make up a majority of climbing's appeal. I did however just notice the full title for this forum being "Eldo sux AKA the crag blasphemer's thread" so maybe I just should have not clicked on it. Either way, bummer. Jon S.


Damnit. You know, I think you've all figured out my plan. I wasn't setting out to simply ask a question about crags that you may not just LOVE but everyone else seems to. I was trying to recruit fellow saboteurs to set off a dirty bomb in Eldorado Canyon State Park so no one could ever climb again, ever. Damnit. The Harlem Globetrotters didn't even get to join in before you ruined it.

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 27, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
you are
you are

FLAG
 
By Stone Nude
Oct 27, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
OOh, I got a list happening.

Jtree, for being kitty litter hanging tough until you touch it. Better rock in Central Virginia, go climb at Old Rag and see if it isn't miles more solid than even the classics. The crystals at Jumbo Rocks bouldering made me realize that just because there's a cliff made of broken glass somewhere doesn't mean it's worth climbing. Cut through three layers of tape sharp. Awful shite.

Contra-pinion: way nice setting, thousands of routes to explore, good soloing spot if you can handle the crunchies.

St.George bolted climbs, for being home to bolted cracks (Prophesy Wall, understandable due to coarse rottenness but STILL...), chipped ledges (Watchtower area at Soul Asylum, thanks for making the hanging belay A0, guys, really worth drilling out a ledge at a non-stance.), bolted-on gym holds (Veyo, I try to get the joke but it's just evil), the birdshit-covered steep caves that end up sending crispies into your mouth if you're not super careful (numerous spots), and, since we're talking limestone, some heinously sharp, annoyingly stupid routes (the easiest/worst at Black and Tan, and many more). Bonus points for ghetto bolting at times, grade inflation, the locals having dog bowl/lawn chair entitlement syndrome, and a certain Jerry Springer aspect of some locals, involving guns, burnt down trailers, sika'd crimps, full-on fabricated Rock and Ice articles claiming specious cleanups/rebolting, and so on.

Conversely: A total shit show in so many ways, but man, the good cliffs are AMAZING for west coast sport. Some of the best I've done outside of the Red and New.

Red Rock sport climbing. There's shit to do, but REALLY? "World Class"??? Cloud tower is pretty outstanding, the OR on Rainbow is rad, we've got reams of sick moderate climbing, big aid walls, long adventure routes, Levitation 29 (if that's your thing), and people think that the bolted dirt is "world class"?

The HIKING is miles better than the sport climbing here. For an outdoor gym it is pretty decent, but compared to Roadside Crag by itself, the Calico hills are pretty dook. It's nice to have something to do on shorter days, but maybe one route out of five hits the three star level. The rest are just all right. The handful of classics we have in the Hills are really nice, like Winter Heat, the Fox, Strategic Arms, Chrysler, a few of the really steep routes that have solid rock on them, so I'm not hating unilaterally, just making a point that ONE crag at RRG trumps about everything in a several mile area here.

The New. It rains all the goddamn time, it's like hooking up with Salma Hayek and finding out she's on the rag 29 days a month. Annoying, though the good days are unbeatable.

Indian Creek, Red River Gorge, the Needles in CA. All unbelievably good stone, gorgeous natural setting, routes that defy logic in their unlimited sickness, and......all FULL of shitheads, at least in the areas you'd want to go to check out some first day classics at. Asshats, trustafarians, agenda of rage Vegas dipshits, the "find another crack, we're TRing this one all day" crew at Supercrack Buttress, the unmatchable Red Spraylords....FUUUUUCK, man. My favorite spots, chock full of see yhoo enn tee esses.

Everywhere has a downside, I just shot down all my favorites except North Carolina (which is perfect and unassailable) and the Red Rock canyons, which really are world-class, vast, and amazing.

Just be glad we haven't all given ourselves terminal cases of elbow tendinitis from jacking each other off on some ridiculous website rather than doing something more satisfying and can still climb and enjoy these shitty, overrated areas. Mea culpa.

FLAG
By GMBurns
Oct 27, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Boulder Canyon
Rumney

FLAG
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2012
El Chorro
I climbed there once. It was fun. I suppose if I lived in Boulder I'd probably climb there a lot. But I don't think I'd ever live close enough to make another trip.

FLAG
By wankel7
From Indiana
Oct 27, 2012
To have a place like eldo in ones back yard and then complain of its quality...

Try living in Texas you might appreciate it more.

FLAG
By CaptainPoopyPants
Oct 27, 2012
frankstoneline: "this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain"

yes there is rain....but what about Leavenworth....and the lederhosen?

FLAG
By richard magill
Oct 27, 2012
Mountain Bike Action!
All Killer No Filler wrote:
The New. It rains all the goddamn time, it's like hooking up with Salma Hayek and finding out she's on the rag 29 days a month. Annoying, though the good days are unbeatable.


Now that's funny!

As for the odds, that's a chance I'd be willing to take.

FLAG
By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Oct 27, 2012
wankel7 wrote:
To have a place like eldo in ones back yard and then complain of its quality... Try living in Texas you might appreciate it more.


Amen, brother!

We visited Eldo for the first time recently and felt like I was in climbing heaven!

FLAG
By will smith
From boulder
Oct 27, 2012
Nick Stayner wrote:
Is that why people from Boulder always wind up in Tensleep :) ? But seriously... rock climbing is such a diverse sport with so many unique experiences to be had. Each crag has something to offer. In that sense, i've never visited a crag I didn't like.

I've climbed in many areas in the west and I've never found one I didn't like either. That said, they are all falling apart, Eldo has a special place in my heart and I continue to climb there every chance I get, even weekends if that's all I can get.

FLAG
 
By Drew Spaulding
From Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Lowering out on the Mescalito... '94
Eldo is world class... on top of that, one of a kind!!

FLAG
By daniel hackett
Oct 27, 2012
I agree with Milt. Eldo is world class!

FLAG
By Kenan
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd
willeslinger wrote:
I don't particularly love Eldorado Canyon SP, but most of my friends think it's pretty much the greatest climbing area of all time ever to have sprung out of the earth's crust. What's that area for you? The ultra classic place to climb that you feel bashful for even slightly disparaging, but in your heart of hearts you just don't absolutely love.


For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?

FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Oct 27, 2012
smiley face
Whale's Tail, East Slab -- Yeah Baby!

FLAG
By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Kenan wrote:
For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?


What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag?

Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you.

I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.

FLAG
By C.Ball
From Breckenridge, Co
Oct 27, 2012
breich de la meije
Milt and Hacky are high. Eldo is a pile of broken rocks.

FLAG
By Kenan
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd
Colonel Mustard wrote:
What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag? Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you. I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.


I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree?

I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.

FLAG
By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Kenan wrote:
I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree? I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.


If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there? Personally, I don't waste my time in areas I don't like. Sounds like an exercise in masochism!

FLAG
 
By frankstoneline
Oct 27, 2012
CaptainPoopyPants wrote:
frankstoneline: "this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain" yes there is rain....but what about Leavenworth....and the lederhosen?


Oh Leavenworth is sweet. If you like near vertical hiking to climb one good pitch and then do a bunch of shite 'cause we're already here I guess'. Also the tourism in that town is horrid. You can't buy groceries without wishing you were dead by a lederhosen noose.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>