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Eldo - Genesis - Fixed Rope
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Sep 24, 2012
officer friendly
Anybody know the story with the fixed rope on genesis is? I'm sick of looking at it, its been there over a week. mt.wilson
From Denver
Joined Jun 8, 2009
64 points
Sep 25, 2012
Yo, Its one of my neighbors here in Eldo workin on a certain variation. I will tell him about your concerns. Peace and f-nes Steve S. Steve Sangdahl
From eldo sprngs,co
Joined Mar 25, 2002
943 points
Sep 25, 2012
if it bothers you I am sorry, my advice... don't look at it EDJ
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2011
86 points
Sep 25, 2012
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
That's a great attitude EDJ - chances are the rope will be "cleaned up" by someone in short order, then the owner of the rope will come on here whining about their "stolen" gear. Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Sep 25, 2012
Mashers Tower
thanks shralp good looking out that thing is an eyesore

sorry I can't just not look at it lol
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Sep 25, 2012
black nasty
shra,
what is the big deal? is it in the way of anyone?
(not that it is my rope..)
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Sep 25, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Keep eldo clean and beautiful. Its not a place for fixed crap! Anyone that thinks their project on some silly variation is so important that they are entitled to leave a fixed rope surely doesn't get the spirit of eldo. The nerve of some people really bunches my panties. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Sep 25, 2012
black nasty
don't start the flame war...

i am sure the fella will move his rope.

and by the way, i think he has the spirit of eldo,
having done more than most of us ever will there,
and living there, and doing first ascents there, etc.

for all you people know, he could be working on cleaning
a new route for you all to enjoy safely..
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Sep 25, 2012
It is my line. I am having fun on that rock climb. The rope is not in the way. Soon it will be down as I am ready to try and lead it. thank you for all of your opinions EDJ
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2011
86 points
Sep 25, 2012
me on my redpoint
This is why I don't like climbing in Boulder anymore, so much bull shit attitude. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Sep 25, 2012
Bouldering in Morocco.
Dave Cummings wrote:
This is why I don't like climbing in Boulder anymore, so much bull shit attitude.


Agreed
Ryan-Nelson
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Sep 22, 2010
401 points
Sep 25, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
This is how the Boulder Rope Wars got started.

Just sayin'.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Sep 25, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
JLP wrote:
Is this a nice rope? I could use a 10ish mm.


I was going to say that. It's raining down here in the Springs right now. Is this rope also getting wet up there? Does it have a good, quality dry treatment? I find other so-called dry treatments just are not up to snuff.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Sep 25, 2012
EDJ wrote:
if it bothers you I am sorry, my advice... don't look at it


Why didn't you say it was your rope to begin with? Oh, I get it. . . you're super-cool!

I'm guessing you're building lots of support for your ACE submission.
Umph!
Joined Nov 8, 2004
277 points
Sep 25, 2012
The front yard
Come on people now, people now, drivin hybrids people now, people now, come on people now, people now. -Stan Marsh Eldo Love
From Mancos,CO
Joined Sep 9, 2012
125 points
Sep 25, 2012
The front yard
All Killer No Filler wrote:
What a bunch of hairless ballsacks you Eldo folk are. Threatening online to jack a rope with accountability, hating on people owning up to what they're doing honestly, just generally being walking talking excuses for cold sores- Golden Fuckface Award goes to the first person in this forum to set themselves on fire. The rest are second best. Hey, what's new on Oprah's book club list, you walking testosterone cases?


I live in Eldo and I'm not a hairless ballsack... awwww man
Eldo Love
From Mancos,CO
Joined Sep 9, 2012
125 points
Sep 25, 2012
The front yard
hahaha okay mr. "walking testosterone case". jeez. Eldo Love
From Mancos,CO
Joined Sep 9, 2012
125 points
Sep 25, 2012
mmmm....tree
I am going to weigh in here to tell you guys that EDJ is a no shit badass. He's working on a New Route that most of you could only dream about. Stop bitching. It will be great. Or,maybe you only like pre-approved, helmet friendly, not-too-runout, past achievements... Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Joined Oct 4, 2001
177 points
Sep 26, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Hi Joe.
I've stayed out of this until now.
Working a route I could only dream of?
You mean a rehearsed headpoint?

Yawn... No matter the grade. It's been done if it isn't 5.15.

That is your values and perhaps his. And other people may or may not be impressed. If you expect them to value your goals, perhaps you should acknowledge that theirs are different.

Different strokes for different folks.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,502 points
Sep 26, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Tony B wrote:
Hi Joe. I've stayed out of this until now. Working a route I could only dream of? You mean a rehearsed headpoint? Yawn... No matter the grade. It's been done if it isn't 5.15. That is your values and perhaps his. And other people may or may not be impressed. If you expect them to value your goals, perhaps you should acknowledge that theirs are different. Different strokes for different folks.



Thanks for that Tony. Well said.

It is amazing how people try to legitimize their actions. In some cases, others will do it for them.

What I love about Eldo... it is one of the best preserved areas anywhere, ethics, style, history. But, the Boschefellers and the Hiltionians are pressing in. It is unlikely anybody will be impressed by some 5 whatever, rehearsed headpoint. But, if edj is so BA, then it should only take minutes to ascend the nearest route and set up said fixed line. Then, remove at the end of the day. Nobody will have a problem with that. Style kids, style.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Sep 26, 2012
If you really care so much about pristine wilderness and outdoor ethics just stop climbing. A line hung temporarily on a project is much less an eyesore and much more temporary than the trails, chalk stains and tape balls "environmentally conscious" and "ethically driven" climbers produce on the daily.
The greenest thing you could possibly do is to go hang yourself from a fucking tree.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Sep 26, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
frankstoneline wrote:
If you really care so much about pristine wilderness and outdoor ethics just stop climbing. A line hung temporarily on a project is much less an eyesore and much more temporary than the trails, chalk stains and tape balls "environmentally conscious" and "ethically driven" climbers produce on the daily. The greenest thing you could possibly do is to go hang yourself from a fucking tree.


Nice try - false paradox. Find me with chalk (I don't use it) or tape (same) in Eldo and then lecture me.
Pointing out a different bad behavior and then accusing a 3rd party of it is a foolish argument to make.
The point remains the same - expect that someone is going to have different values. And the people who don't like the rope probably like the tape and chalk even less than you do, so associating them with that is a straw man at best.
For my own part, the rope for a week is not bothering me, but I'm starting to develop a distaste for the attitude that comes with it, which makes me appreciate it less.

Talk like that to people who don't like the rope and at some point you should expect someone to trump you by just taking it down. You are not coming from a position of power (it is not legal, in fact) and provoking a crowd is never smart when your back is turned. You are not doing edj any favors.

In my opinion the wisest most mature response, would have been:
"Sorry, I didn't realize that some people would have that reaction. I'm hoping you'll realize that it is a valuable project for me and not intended to be a permanent installation." I am putting a lot of effort into that project and should finish soon, and I promise that the moment the project is down, I will remove the rope immediately. Thanks for understanding."

I imagine that would have provoked a lot less ire and certainly would have demonstrated a lot more awareness of others rather the rather self-absorbed/entitled responses that were given. I can tell people not to look at litter. But it's not a good answer. At this point I'd still leave the rope up, but if someone told me that they were going to take it down, I'd just shrug. "If you are going to be stupid you better be tough." That goes for both sides.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,502 points
Sep 26, 2012
black nasty
can anyone tell me why this is such a big fukin deal?


how much i care.
how much i care.
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Sep 26, 2012
once again, unfortunately, proving how lame mountain project can be. to bad people can't just ask about the rope, instead of getting butthurt and making internet tough guy threats. I would also say that EDJ is someone who knows the "ethics" of eldo very well. No one seemed to care when another well known climber had fixed ropes all over Redgarden a while ago training for the nose in a day... gregmiller7
Joined Aug 27, 2006
283 points
Sep 26, 2012
Bocan
Why haven't the rangers taken it down? I would think that would have been the first thing that happened. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Sep 26, 2012
they probably have an idea of why its there, and have better things to do.. gregmiller7
Joined Aug 27, 2006
283 points


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