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Elbow pain from jamming crack
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By Orphaned
Mar 26, 2012

After a prolific summer of jamming crack with almost no crimping or using tiny holds I began to notice a tenderness/dull ache in the inside of my elbow about 8-12 hours after climbing. It usually only lasted about a day and would subside after some icing or Ibuprofen. I toned back the volume of climbing and would ice preventatively after climbing, but the pain came back. Stretching and antagonistic exercises didn't seem to help. I took 3 months off and then tried to transition back into climbing 1x month or so.

I did 3 laps on a 40 foot 5.6 handcrack yesterday and I can feel a tightness in the same spot despite stretching and icing.

Can someone please mail me a magic pill that will make this stop? If not, anyone have advice/suggestions?

Thanks-
Paul


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Mar 26, 2012

See an orthopedist rather than asking for a diagnosis on MP. I had pain on the inside of my elbow and it was tendonitis.


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Mar 26, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

Yep, sounds like tendonitis, but i'm no doctor, you should see one.


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By MegaGaper2000
From Indianola, Wa
Mar 27, 2012
the dragon's tail, or dragon's tooth, or whatever. And me.

I noticed something similar the other day. I climbed my second full day of the season at Index and noticed a dull pain just inside and below my left elbow. I noticed it at the crag while belaying, a little while climbing, and then at home that night in beg I noticed it a bit, too.

It seemed pretty strange to be tendonitis: we only did five pitches. I also assumed that tendonitis was brought on by overusing gripping muscles, but my day at Index was a day full of locker hands and fists (thank you, god) and just a little liebacking.

I wish I had some advice for you or something. I have a lot of experience with knee/ankle/leg injuries from my days in a different discipline, but the recovery trajectory of tendonitis seems to throw most of what I know (or thought I knew) out the window. Spooky.

Best of luck to you (and by extension, me)!


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By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Mar 27, 2012
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

Try finger extensions (from fist to 'high five' position) in a bag of rice until you get a decent pump. x5 sets or so... works little muscles near your elbow that you never seem to use when you're climbing. works best if you fill a 5gallon bucket most of the way with rice. fixed my tendonitis right up!
- from the book "one move too many"

Bonus tip: if your gut is hurting from long term ibuprofen use, cut down/eliminate cow's milk and take fish oil instead of ibuprofen. When my gut started hurting from too much ibuprofen, I discovered that tip to be more effective at reducing inflammation in my knee (tendonitis) than ibuprofen alone.

good luck paul! these overuse injuries are pretty annoying and ongoing! whever I go to a doc about this type of stuff it usually proves to be a waste of my time and money


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By $t0& 960
From Colorado
Mar 27, 2012
s

dirtbag wrote:
Try finger extensions (from fist to 'high five' position) in a bag of rice until you get a decent pump. x5 sets or so... works little muscles near your elbow that you never seem to use when you're climbing. works best if you fill a 5gallon bucket most of the way with rice. fixed my tendonitis right up! - from the book "one move too many" Bonus tip: if your gut is hurting from long term ibuprofen use, cut down/eliminate cow's milk and take fish oil instead of ibuprofen. When my gut started hurting from too much ibuprofen, I discovered that tip to be more effective at reducing inflammation in my knee (tendonitis) than ibuprofen alone. good luck paul! these overuse injuries are pretty annoying and ongoing! whever I go to a doc about this type of stuff it usually proves to be a waste of my time and money

Very good info


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By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Mar 27, 2012
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

oh.. and stop pulling (climbing) until you get this figured out. good time to work on your cardio so you can send that 200' lieback crack when you're all healed up!


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