Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Aegir
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
20th Century Flake T 
21st Century Finger Crack T 
Blockbuster Ballet T 
Coriolis T 
Direct Madness T 
Doubt S 
Elacca Drug S 
Gom Gabbar T 
Reef Break T 
Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct T 
Rogue Planet T,S 
Thread Lightly T 
Tideways T 

Elacca Drug 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Benedon & Scott McNamara (?)
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: the route

Description 

This line caught our eye as we were on the way to Coriolis. It's not in any guide. It's the attractive, crackless right-facing corner (see photo), with bolts on Aegir's lower west face. The climbing is fun, with sustained technical stemming and arete climbing. This is the only route I have done at the Reef where I was never scared.

After the corner ends, move right into an easy groove, and then up the moderate slab clipping the last bolt on "Gom Gabbar" (the route to the right). Belay from shrubs, gravel, etc.

[edit]: Brian says below that the route is 155', but we were just barely able to rap back down from the top with a single 60 meter rope so I think it is a fair bit shorter. This also makes it easy to do this and Gom Gabbar quickly back to back without a second rope for a rap line.

Location 

It is the first route you come to on Aegir's lower west face--about 100(?) feet before Coriolis. One bolt on the wall about 25 feet to the right marks the start of the climb "Gom Gabbar."

Protection 

7 bolts + hand sized cams for the groove. Well protected--feels out of character for the Reef!


Comments on Elacca Drug Add Comment
Show which comments
By JMayhew
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 12, 2010

Brian Benedon and someone, (maybe Tony??) did that and I think the line to the right.
Both are excellent ways to start the day out there.
Brian? You out there?
By brian benedon
Oct 18, 2010

the route; # 14, is called Elacca Drug 5.10, 7 bolts, 155', rack 1/2-4 camalot.
the route curves rt and joins with Gom Gabbar. belay with med cams, sm wire and dead tree.
bbn sm 2001

route # 13. Gom Gabbar 5.9 or 11a, 150', 4 draws,#1 tcu- #4 camalot.
this route is fun crack climbing. the lone bolt is the crux, or climb the dirty groove to start. sm bbn 01

these routes are left of wormsign

we found it easier to walk above the climbs and come down the gully to the rt of coriolis, or better yet, bring an extra line, fix it, and rap in. do all 4 routes for a nice day of climbing.

these routes were gifts, to us, from the gods, for a good deed done. enjoy