|317 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||Brian Benedon & Scott McNamara (?)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring, summer, fall|
|Submitted By: ||Charles Vernon on Oct 12, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: the route
This line caught our eye as we were on the way to Coriolis. It's not in any guide. It's the attractive, crackless right-facing corner (see photo), with bolts on Aegir's lower west face. The climbing is fun, with sustained technical stemming and arete climbing. This is the only route I have done at the Reef where I was never scared.
After the corner ends, move right into an easy groove, and continue to a gully bushwhack (or climb the clean but unprotected slab on the right). Belay from trees.
It is the first route you come to on Aegir's lower west face--about 100(?) feet before Coriolis. There is a seemingly random bolt on the wall to the right.
7 bolts + hand sized cams for the groove. Well protected--feels out of character for the Reef!
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 12, 2010
Brian Benedon and someone, (maybe Tony??) did that and I think the line to the right.
Both are excellent ways to start the day out there.
Brian? You out there?
|By brian benedon|
Oct 18, 2010
the route; # 14, is called Elacca Drug 5.10, 7 bolts, 155', rack 1/2-4 camalot.
the route curves rt and joins with Gom Gabbar. belay with med cams, sm wire and dead tree.
bbn sm 2001
route # 13. Gom Gabbar 5.9 or 11a, 150', 4 draws,#1 tcu- #4 camalot.
this route is fun crack climbing. the lone bolt is the crux, or climb the dirty groove to start. sm bbn 01
these routes are left of wormsign
we found it easier to walk above the climbs and come down the gully to the rt of coriolis, or better yet, bring an extra line, fix it, and rap in. do all 4 routes for a nice day of climbing.
these routes were gifts, to us, from the gods, for a good deed done. enjoy