El Whampo 

2nd pitch is great. Best crack at the 5.6 grade I have climbed yet.

After the second pitch it is possible to finish by heading up and slightly to the left over the root of the dihedral (making it a three pitch route instead of five). This avoids the loose uninspired last pitches. From the end of this pitch you can drop straight into the north gully descent.
The best easy hand crack in Idylwild.

A spicier and longer finish is to go up then right over a small overhang.(this is well below the bolt)
Run it out right face climbing to a vertical crack and ascend to under the arch to a comfortable belay, (5.7).

There are several alternative exits from the arch, all about the same difficulty. The highest quality alternative is to continue with an easy long pitch and exit at the overhang that is shared by N.E. Face West and several other routes.

This produces about a six pitch climb and adds a couple of quality ones.

Bolt? What bolt? The ORIGINAL way it was done was to take the arch exit to where the route joins the NE Butt. exit. Exiting where the NE Farce goes IS NOT El Whampo. Yep, the 2nd pitch was fun for the grade but the third pitch (headin up and right along a thin crack/seam) was fun too (5.7 friction).

Great crack on P2. I always back off going right on P3. Did not see any pro. Opted for going more right to the arch. very enjoyable.

missed the double cracks for p2. I continued up the dihedral (maybe 5.9?) until I reached the end of 70m (starting from the base). There was a long sling for a rap where I stopped, with which with a 70m you can rap to a sturdy bush where I discovered the double cracks.

Ha! Wish I'd read these posts before I went out on this one today...or perhaps it's best I didn't!

I was pretty sure I was off-route on the slab above the second pitch, since there's really no pro until you get a pin scar near the top of the slab. Pretty good feet for slab...there are a bunch of black inclusions in the rock that seem to give a pretty good purchase, but there's no hands. Run-out is maybe 20-25 feet. Not sure. Merits a PG13 probably?

Get gear under the roof you go over to get onto the slab. What a fun route!

Edit June 2012: This time went up and left toward the dihedral on P3 (instead of straight up). Turning the "roof" (more the remnants of the giant dihedral than a roof) is easy if you find the right way, much easier to protect, and there is much less loose rock than if you go to the right. Once you get over the roof, stay high on the buttress and it's easy going on clean, pretty solid rock to the dead tree where most people (?) unrope. Tom (below) must have found a different seam than the one i followed. I scoured it for placements and found nothing but a lot of dirt and moss in a shallow thin crack.

The crack on the second pitch is spectacular for the grade...in it's way as good as The Grack - Center in the Valley.

The thin seam on P3 protects well with small nuts and is another fun pitch. You can barely make out the seam up and slightly right from the belay at the end of P2. There's a great #1 Camalot before you step out onto the slab and the seam is reached about 8 ft later. No runout and very mellow.

P2 is sooooo good!! One the best hand cracks I have ever been on.

^ Rob knows :) 4 stars for the second pitch

The origional third 5.7 pitch is well worth doing but the crux moves are unprotected, might get a tiny nut in, it gets easier soon with good albiet small pro.

Follow the guidebook topo to finish it up, basically another traverse pitch and pull through a notch for another pitch of 5.easy climbing above.