El Ultimo Recurso  5.10d

46 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Rolando Garibotti Submitted By:  Rich Brereton on Jan 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

p1: Start in a slightly dirty crack until you can traverse right on big edges to gain the first bolt on the clean face. Clip a couple more bolts en route to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10b

p2: Follow the line of bolts up a spectacular face past thin edges, weaving left and right to follow line of least resistance. Two-bolt anchor at small ledge/stance on the arete dividing East and North faces. 5.10c

p3: Follow the arete, crux is passing the first two bolts, then traverse right below the small roof is part of the summit block. Clip a bolt and crank over the roof, continuing up the short headwall to the summit. Bolt anchor on the top. 5.10d

To descend, do two single-rope raps down the back (South) side of CAC to an easy scramble down and around the South side to get back to your pack.

Location 

El ultimo recurso climbs the proud, prominent arete that separates the North and East faces of Aguja CAC. Climb the white, rocky gully below the East face of CAC to approach. This route begins from the broad ledge below the arete. A huge dihedral system is 40 feet to the left and a huge roof is just around the corner to the right, 80 feet up.

Protection 

Protection is mostly widely-spaced bolts (nice, new, recently replaced). Supplement with stoppers and a few medium-sized cams.