|Raco de les Espadelles
El Sistema climbs a spectacular gray tufa streak, with the aid of the "juggy" pockets at the start of La Gomorra (to avoid the 8b+ direct start). This is not as bouldery as many routes at Margalef, requiring mostly good stamina. However, a good bit of finger strength is required for the strenuous crux traverse between the fourth & fifth bolts.
Begin with La Gomorra's burly start to reach the big hole below the fourth bolt. Rest well, then charge up and right into the gray streak. Awesome textured pockets lead up the streak to a series of vertical pods & awkward rests. The final perplexing pod leads to a smooth gray headwall and the redpoint crux: a strenuous highstep & lieback to reach a hidden jug. Big moves left lead to the anchor.
Begins up La Gomorra, cutting right after a rest in the big hole.
~10 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
El Sistema is on the left end of Espadelles & shar...
Resting at the big hole before the powerful pocket...
Jan 26, 2014
There are many 7c+'s at Espadelles. In my opinion this is the best