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El Segundo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Marabel Loverage, Kyle Copeland, April, 1992
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Todd Gordon on El Secondo. Photo: Todd Gordon coll...

Description 

This route is on the north side of the River and quite visible from the main bridge leaving Moab. The right-facing dihedral is eye-candy for all climbers, and the anchor is visible without gettin out of your car. How can you resist? Pitch one;...Approach from the left;..mostly scrambling, bu there is an exposed step across and easy 5th class climbing to a bolted belay at the base of the dihedral. Pitch 2; Fingers and Hands (5.9) lead to a bolted belay and rap station. This climb is cool and fun and worthy; a fun adventure if you got an extra hour or two.

Location 

You can see it from the main bridge over the Colorado River as you leave Moab going North. It's on the N. Side of the Highway.

Protection 

Maybe a double rack of cams.


Photos of El Segundo Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Sartin on El Secondo.  Photo; Todd Gordon.
Tony Sartin on El Secondo. Photo; Todd Gordon.
Route Overlay El Segundo.
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay El Segundo.

Comments on El Segundo Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 23, 2007

The other climbs on this north side of the Highway (Other than Barney Rubble, which is down the road a piece), are The Coup (5.10-), Canyonlands by Night (5.10), Fun Ramp (III 5.9 A2), a Lenard Coyne free route? (Near the Fun Ramp)....and probably more?.....I would like more info on these climbs by those in the know.....I've only done the El Secondo, and I would like to do more here....(Close to town, short approach....stuff us lazy bastards like...)
By Leonard Coyne
Aug 4, 2007

Hey Todd, Leonard here, hope your doing well. There are 2 climbs myself and various partners have put up over there:

Trail of The Navajo - about 200 meters L of fun ramp. Easily seen from the campground a mile or so up the river. This is the large L facing corner directly across from the campground. Starts in the L facing corner on the ground, then face climbs up and L to the huge L facing corner system. Need everything from a black alien to several large pieces. 8 pitches 11D (could probably be reduced to 10 or 11- A0). Can either rap the route (real easy to get ropes stuck), or walk off an endless sea of slabs with difficult route finding (do not do this in the dark/dusk). Killer climb, comprable to Astroman (in a desert sort of way). Topo at Pagan.

The Hyaena - about 200 meters right of the fun ramp. Cool nine pitch free climb up a highly improbable wall. Up the slab (bolts) to a vague R facing corner (more bolts, 13- or A1), face traverse left to another R facing corner, left yet again to another right facing corner (the side of the big hanging buttress). 9 pitches 13- (could be reduced to 5.10 A0) I think there is a topo at Pagan's.

(Bjornstad has topos of both (if he can find them))

ALSO

Left of Hyaena Dave Mealey et al put up a cool 4 pitch aid limb w. some nice splitters up high. Lots of bat holes (I think). Looks to be A4 ish.

Approach all of these either via hiking from near the bridge or via boat (sort of fun, take PFD's).

Best, LC
By ljh
May 2, 2011

El Segundo, I believe. (I know, details, details … )
AKA : Bobo Did It
By ljh
May 2, 2011

Re. the other Fun Ramp area routes—there is a historic Peregrine Falcon nest site there. Please stay off those routes 3/1-9/1. I'm not sure if the NPS has ever issued an official seasonal closure, but this pair/site is one of the most frequently monitored pairs in the area and I have to hear about it from the bio-peeps allll the time when they see climbers on routes there durng the breeding season.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route close to town... and a little "mini adventure" as well. Climbs like a tower route.... even though it isn't a tower :)

Park right below the route in a pullout. Walk up the bike path towards Arches until you can (easily) gain the bench and then follow the bench up until it ends at the start of the first pitch traverse. You actually start the hike on the short trail to the petrogylphs sign.

The first pitch steps down a short chimney before traversing right. I was easily able to place pro all across the traverse to protect my second. The climbing is easy... but it is loose. Belay is a bolt and drilled pin.

Second pitch is 100' of fun jamming through a variety of sizes. Primarily #0.75, #1, and #2 camalots. You do go through a bit of junky rock.

Two raps down with a single 70m. Last rap JUST makes it with a 70m.

Gear: Conservative rack.... I was happy to have some small cams (blue and yellow mastercam). 1 or 2 #0.4 camalots, 1 or 2 #0.5 camalots, and 3-4 each of #0.75, #1, and #2 camalots. One #3 camalot was nice as well.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Nov 1, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Would anyone object if I replaced the anchor/rappel webbing on this climb with climbing chain or mussey hooks? To be certain, I will NOT add any new bolts or replace the old bolts.
By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

upgrade away just make them as low profile and camouflaged as possible please. the route is in arches and we do not need to give them another reason to not like climbers
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Upgraded the anchor slings to chains and rappel rings for pitch 1 and mussey hooks for pitch 2. Painted them a nice brown color to match the sandstone.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Nov 30, 2014

Thanks for doing that Josh!