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El Potrero Chico Guidebooks (as of 2012)?
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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Jan 23, 2012
Espresso @ New Jack City

Can anyone who's been to EPC recently chime in on what the current lastest-and-greatest guidebook is? There's another post from 2008 asking this question, but I'm assuming that there have been updates and possibly new ones published since then. Thanks!


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By MisterE
From Bishop, CA
Jan 24, 2012

Just got back from 2 weeks there - Potrero Ed has a new (17th edition) guidebook out, with over 60 new routes in it "not found in other guide-books". It is the 2012 edition, and is pretty much up-to-date, although it is not on the scale of "The Whole Enchilada".


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 24, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Dane Bass did the comprehensive guide. MP has a link for both here:

Potrero Chico Guide Books


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By gearwhore
From Orange, CA
Jan 24, 2012

Tagged for later. Thanks!


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By Ed Wright
Jan 25, 2012
Magic Ed

Climb El Potrero Chico is hot off the press and completely up to date (except for the new 2 pitch route I just finished and some new routes going in next to Access Denied and on the Mileski Wall).

This book is only 12 bucks and only available here in the Potrero.

Don't waste your $ on The Whole Enchilada--not only is it out-of-date but has hundreds, yes hundreds, of errors.


Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th edition. <br />
Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th edition.


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By Wally
From Denver
Jan 26, 2012

Ed - is the Whole Enchilada really that bad? My first time to EPC - Thanksgiving 2010 - the Enchilada served me great - didn't find any errors - I climbed a lot of the classics.

Maybe next time to EPC - if there is a next time - I hope things can calm down there, I will purchase your guide and will then have two sources of information. My reason for going with the Whole Enchilada for my initial guidebook purchase is it looks to be a more complete guide.

Thanks for keeping us uptodate on EPC, and for your continued route-setting. I enjoy your blog.

Wally


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By Ed Wright
Jan 26, 2012
Magic Ed

I can't believe you used that book and didn't notice any errors. They obviously didn't bother to proof-read before going to press and there are multiple typos on almost every page, including route grades. Every one of the picture diagrams has at least one mistake and the star rating system is totally bogus. There are dozens of excellent routes that got no stars at all.

Many people have told me, and I agree, that this is the worse guidebook ever published. It does have a brilliant, catchy, title and a glossy cover.

The book is now basically obsolete--at this point there are almost 70 new routes that aren't in there, border crossing procedures have changed, restaurants have closed, etc. The geology section is good, if you ignore all the typos.


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By Rob P.
From Bay Area
Jan 27, 2012

If you plan on doing any climbing on the Outrage wall, Ed's book is the way to go. The Whole Enchilada's section on the most beautiful wall in the park is pitiful.


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Jan 27, 2012
Espresso @ New Jack City

I am sold on Ed's book! I wish it was also available online so I could get a head-start picking routes; will grab a copy once I arrive.


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By Ed Wright
Apr 17, 2012
Magic Ed

If you're here to climb the long classics you're going to be confused by The Whole Enchilada--you're much better off with the topos and correct info in my book.


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By Ed Wright
Apr 18, 2012
Magic Ed

I'll give you just a couple of examples. Estrellita is a 12 pitch route with variations on the 3rd and 4th pitches. The Whole Enchilada does not explain this clearly and their info is very confusing. Lots of climbers have complained to me about that.

On Pancho Villa Rides Again there are two stations at the top of the 4th pitch, a comfortable one for belaying on the way up and a hanging one for rappelling with a 60 meter rope. The Whole Enchilada does not explain this and I see people belaying at the hanging belay and complaining about it afterwards.

There are numerous other such examples.

Every one of those photos you like with the lines showing the routes has at least one mistake so you can't trust any of them.

The Whole Enchilada exists because of Dane's huge ego--it's too bad he did all that work and then didn't go the extra step to eliminate all the errors. It's one thing to have spelling errors and another to get route grades wrong due to a typo.


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Apr 18, 2012
Espresso @ New Jack City

So after 6 climbing days down there (good meeting you and Tami, Ed, at Posada!) here's my guidebook musings:

We had Ed's book, and my iPad with the MP app for photo-reconnaissance before embarking for the Potrero. I found some walls in the book had good descriptions of routes, particularly with regard to where they start. Others, you simply had to count boltlines and hope you didn't miss any. (I know the French Canadian lads that were down there got lost as well starting a route, but from a mis-labeled photo topo in Dane's book).

For the classics, there were either tags at the start, or photos of the start on MP, or they were the only climb in their area that made finding them simple (Space Boyz, Estrellitas, Pancho Villa Rides Again, TWZ).

On the other hand, for both Thunderkiss and El Sendero Diablo, we spent a good half hour for each scouting out the walls to make sure we were indeed getting on the intended route- there were a few manky tree trunks around the Thunderkiss start, and we didn't want to inadvertently start up one of the neighboring 1P 5.12's. For ESD, it's a bit ambiguous as to whether the right-most 4P 10b of Outrage Wall starts way right of ESD, or on the right side of that belay alcove; the markings on the topo simply indicating that the easier climb is "right and downhill", when in reality it's like 10 feet or so to the right of ESD.

I think the best enhancement to Ed's guide, especially for a first-time EPC climber, would be a phototopo for each area with some of the popular routes marked as reference points.

I really liked having topos of the popular multipitch routes; I tore out those pages and brought them with me on those climbs (SB, TWZ, Estrellitas).


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By Dan Petty
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 28, 2012
Overlooking Roanoke, VA after completing the Blue Ridge Marathon the previous day.

I can't really comment on Ed's book, but I can agree that Whole Enchilada was missing routes, had copious amounts of typos, and a star rating system heavily biased by the FA party (in favor of the author). Thankfully, I was able to re-sell the book before leaving. Buying it in advance, as I did, was not terribly beneficial. I recommend trying to get a used copy when you get there or at least compare the two books for yourself before buying.


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