El Portrero, La Posada - Travel Questions

Traveler Advice Requested:

Heading to Portrero for a few weeks and will be staying in casitas at La Posada. We will have a kitchenette so making coffee, lunches and snacks are very likely. Figure local markets are easy enough to source. That said, skimping on authentic food and booze will not be happening.

Those of you there recently - do you recall what you were spending per day or cost for food/beers/etc? It's time to order currency.... Help!

Casitas: Seems you bring your own towels. Got it. Any other necessities we should pack along? Melitta cup and our own ground coffee?

Internet: How stable? It would elevate some stress knowing I could get some work done or communicate if possible. But if it's limited, I'll just bring my phone for WiFi and hope for the best.

Security: If internet is stable enough to warrant bringing a laptop, are the rooms secure enough to leave such items?

Gracias!!!

I camped at Posada from Christmas thru New Years this year (peak season).

Bring coffee. and a good frying pan.
wifi was spotty during high traffic times, but it worked every day.

Thanks - I'm hoping the casita has a frying pan. Hmm, talk about unnecessary weight in your pack.

Also good info on internet.

Any recollection on what you spent for in food/groceries for that week? Just a rough idea for meals/beer would be helpful.

Thanks!

I'm sure it will have a frying pan (hopefully better than the ones in the group kitchen).

I cant provide an estimate of my food costs (pretty cheap though).

My daughter and I were there for the first week in January--got unlucky with the weather, but had a great time anyway.

We camped and used the communal, kitchen--it has everything you need except a good coffee making system, though is pretty basic and beat up. Casitas may have better stuff, though I wouldn't count on it, but it will be fine if your gourmet standards aren't too high.

As for a food budget, it really depends on what you eat and how often you go out, but in general it's pretty inexpensive. I'm a vegetarian, so we got a kilo of pinto beans, cooked them up with some peppers and herbs, and had some variation of bean/rice/cheese/tortilla/vegetable medley every night and some sort of veggie/egg scramble every morning, with lots of fresh fruits and vegetables for snacks, and probably spent $10 per day for both of us. Beer was $2.50 for a 40oz next door, and the tequila at the restaurant $7.00 for a liter. Eating out at the Posada is $6-$8 for dinner, and the guy at the store next door did grilled meat and soup every night for a couple dollars. There's also the pizza/margarita wagon that blares loud techno music at dusk in the canyon.

La Posada is pretty secure, so I'm sure your laptop will be OK in the room. You should be careful leaving stuff on the ground while climbing, particularly on weekends, when there are a lot of kids up for the day.

There is nowhere to officially change money in town; La Posada and other places will take dollars but give a fairly low rate. There are ATMs in town that you can get pesos out of.

Have a great trip; feel free to ask any other questions, as I've been there a number of times and know my way around pretty well.

I was just there.
It's mind blowing! You're gonna love it!
Costs?
Cheap cheap cheap!
There is a farmers market twice a week in town where you can by fresh foods for practically nothing.
The only "expensive" thing is getting to and from Portrero from the airport ..something like 50-60$ BOTH ways :-/
Also.. Posada serves up Really good meals which tend to be a bit "pricey"...maybe around 5-6$?
Also, it seems the local Mexicans come into camp every weekend and have HUGE all out, all night ragers complete with enormous cookouts on the grills....make friends!! They love to share ;)

On another note--Do yourself a favor--climb Space Boyz... It's badass !!

Susan - my notes from a trip last month:

We returned from a week in EPC over New Year’s week. We had a great time, despite some iffy weather (cold, overcast, some rain).

Safety – first and foremost – let’s knock out the safety issue. Those that go to EPC very consistently report feeling very safe and willing and anxious to return. All of us in our group felt this way. Thanksgiving of 2014 four friends spent a week in EPC, their message was the same. Safe to go. I would go back without hesitation.

Number of climbers at EPC – there were a lot more climbers there this time (New Year’s week 2014/2015) than when we were previously there in Thanksgiving 2010. Many many tents at Posada’s, maybe 10 vehicles from Colorado, 20 or more vehicles from the rest of the US, as well as vehicles from Mexico and Canada. Many nights just about every parking spot in Posada’s was occupied. The restaurant and the group kitchen area were busy and happening places in the early evenings.

Exchange rate – is good, about 14 pesos equals one US dollar as of December 31, 2014.

Ground transportation from Monterrey airport to EPC – we used local taxis, one taxi per couple. Request a taxi to El Potrero Chico in San Nicolas-Hidalgo, as noted in the Whole Enchilada, page 6. There are two Hidalgo’s, important to clarify which Hidalgo you want to visit. The taxi fare is paid inside the airport, at a taxi counter. A ticket is issued which is shown to the taxi driver. There is a taxi stand just outside the entrance to the airport, very similar to how they are operated here in the US.

Monterrey Airport Beta – there are two terminals. Flights coming in at one terminal are not indicated at the other terminal. For us there was a bit of confusion because our flight on American came into Terminal A and our friends flight came into Terminal B on Delta. If you are arranging a pick up at the airport, it may be good to have clarification about which terminal you are being picked up at. Fortunately the terminals are close to each other, about a four minute walk.

Ground transportation from Posada’s to Monterrey airport – the day before our departure we arranged a taxi through Posada’s. The cost was 1,000 pesos for the 4 of us. With a 12:30 Saturday afternoon pick up, we had plenty of time to make our flights leaving the Monterrey airport around 4:45 pm.

Water Beta – it is OK! to drink from the tap at Posada’s and in EPC. The water is local artesian well water. If you choose to buy bottled water at EPC, you are buying the same water that comes out of the tap. Ice and margarita’s at Posada’s as well as at the food carts in EPC are safe.

Food Sickness Beta – we ate vegetables at the Monterrey airport, burritos from the EPC food cart couple, tamales in Hidalgo, eggs from the mini-mart, and at Posada’s. Nobody in our group had any hint of food poisoning!

Knots in the End of Your Rappel Rope? – we debated this one evening at EPC. On Friday, January 2nd, a climber rapped off the end of his rope on Time Wave Zero. On Saturday, January 3rd, another climber rapped off the end of his rope on Estrellita. Both of these deaths could likely of been avoided with more vigilance and/or knots in the end of the rappel ropes.

Where to Stay in EPC? – Posada’s has the best (and only?) restaurant, may be more quiet than some of the other places to stay, and is the most central and popular place to stay. For all of these reasons, Posada’s is likely my choice again for my next trip. A friend scored a “deal” on a place about half the price of Posada’s. It wasn’t very nice, folks were cranking tunes really loud many nights until wee hours. They seemed pretty frustrated with the deal. Posada’s seems to work hard to try to keep their place clean and reasonably quiet at night.

Tent versus Rooms at Posada’s – tent is cheaper, rooms are nicer, obvious. Mid-winter, when it is colder and the days are shorter, maybe the rooms are the way to go? It was generally colder and wetter than normal the week we were there – the tenters didn’t look very happy.

New EPC Hotel – a new 9 room hotel is in the process of being built at EPC. Just before the entrance to the park – with all rooms having a great view of the front side of EPC. It looks like the hotel might be completed perhaps fall of 2015, maybe sometime in 2016. No information on the name, no contact information.

Dinner Options – we typically ordered the Posada’s special for dinner, which each night was priced at 95 pesos (US $7). The special typically came with damn good tortilla soup, some kind of good meat and vegetable. Really good chips and salsa are complimentary with dinner ordered. Overall food was very good. Another option is to cook at camp. Posada’s supplies a good group kitchen room. Lots of stoves pots and pans dishes and refrigerators. Perhaps concerns with cleanliness (how clean is that silverware and bowl?) and storing your food in a group refrigerator?? It looks like there could be good opportunity to mingle with other campers in the group kitchen, although in the restaurant there is also a good chance to mingle with others. Posada’s did a very nice New Year’s eve buffet which was expensive at 250 pesos (US $18) but damn good.

Breakfast Options – unlike in 2010, and for reasons unknown, Posada’s was not open for breakfast. Most of our breakfasts were damn good breakfast burritos (per person 40 pesos, US $3) we bought the night before from the breakfast burrito food cart that was parked up in EPC most evenings. The front (trailer hook end) of the food cart is yellow and says “Crazy Tacos y Burritos”. The food cart was not open in the morning, so we bought the burritos the night before, refrigerated them over night, and then micro-waved them the next morning. Yum! Our casita came with a microwave and a refrigerator, making this option easy. For tent campers you could group refrigerator the burrito, and I am pretty sure microwaves are in the group kitchen. Another breakfast option is to get fresh eggs at the mini-mart next to Posada’s (just downhill and on the same side of the street as Posada’s). The eggs were better than what we get at home and 3 pesos (US 25 cents) each.

Hidalgo Lunch Recommendation on a Rest Day – is Los Originales Tamales Hidalgo, located at 209 Miguel Hidalgo. The closest intersection is Miguel Hidalgo and Melchor Ocampo. Best and cheapest tamales you may ever enjoy! Tamales were 5 pesos each, about 3 for a US $1. Very memorable.

Mini-Mart next to Posada’s – beer is a bit cheaper here than Posada’s. I am guessing the mini-marts prices are higher than if you went into Hidalgo, but certainly the mini-mart is very convenient. The mini mart has candy bars, nuts, chips, toilet paper (expensive – maybe 50 pesos (US $3) a roll), instant coffee, candy, and of course eggs at noted above. The caguama beer bottles (32 ounces) are returnable for 10 pesos.

Converting Dollars to Pesos and Vice Versa – upon arriving at the Monterrey airport, we withdrew 7,000 pesos (US $500) at an ATM. Just before leaving the Monterrey airport (before going through security), we exchanged our remaining pesos into US dollars.

What to Bring to EPC Next Time that we did not Bring – Toilet paper, instant coffee, soap, bath towel, paper towels, creamer, salt, pepper, pam, Spanish translation book.

Beta on Certain Walls at EPC – in the Dane Bass book order (map on pages 0 and 51 of guidebook):

• 4. Las Estrellas – west facing – home to some very good single pitch lines as well as the classic Estrellita (12 pitches) and the good Super Nova (also 12 pitches).
• 5. Mini Super – west facing – very good single pitch lines – lots of two star 5.10s, a couple of moderates, and a great 3 star 11b (La Presa).
• 10. Mota Wall – south facing – the best (and most popular!) wall to go to when it is cold and sunny. Just past the cattle guard, go left and cross the dry creek. This wall rivals Virgin Canyon for some of the best rock in EPC. Classic multi-pitch lines include Dope Ninja (6 pitches), Snott Girlz (7 pitches), Pancho Villa Rides Again (5 pitches), and Treasure of the Sierra Madre (7 pitches). Some great 9’s, 10’s, and 11’s on this wall. From bottom to top, harder recommended lines include Kelso’s Way with extension (10d), Fat Boy Slim (11b), Motavation (10d), Onward Thru the Fog (11c), and Two Pump Chump (two pitches both 11a).
• 12. The Spires – generally, they have a south facing side and a north facing side. The harder routes (including Pangea) are on the sunny south side. The somewhat easier routes (including Crash Test Dummies) generally are on the shady north side.
• 16. Jungle Wall – generally south facing, this is the long wall that is behind the fenced off pavilion area. Five great multi pitch lines are here, from left to right, are Las Chimuelas (3 pitches, 5.8+), Jungle Mountaineering (3 pitches of 5.10a) to Voo Doo Trance (6 more pitches, 5.10c), Yankee Clipper (14 pitches, 5.10b), Space Boyz (11 pitches, 5.10d), Black Cat Bone (9 pitches, 5.10c).
• 17. Scrutinizer – generally southwest facing, along the road, just after Virgin Canyon to the fenced off pavilion area. Good single pitch lines, including lots of 11s.
• 18. Virgin Canyon – shady (northeast facing) – some of the best rock in EPC is here. Lots of climbing – one could climb here for a week and keep busy. Mostly single pitch lines up the left side (as you are walking in) of the canyon.
• 19. Wonder Wall – shady (northeast facing) – immediately behind the uphill side of the pool complex, some good moderates up to 5.10 here. Also, the three pitch Evil Shenanigans (5.11b) is three stars. A new climb called Ramsey’s Shenanigans is a 3 pitch 5.9+ with a name plate that is just left of Evil Shenanigans.
• 20. Zapatista Wall – shady (northeast facing) – home to the two multi-pitch classics, Satori and Off the Couch. Off the Couch topo is on Mountain Project.

So I contacted La Posada about a room rate and they came back to me with what amounts to $50/night for just me. That seems crazy expensive for Mexico. Is there another clean place to stay? I don't mind camping, but since I'm flying its kinda a pain in the ass! Thanks to all who weighed in on this topic, especially about safety since I'm traveling solo.

Really great stuff, you guys are answering the questions just as we need them. Love to hear actual $$ spent on food & beer. Nobody likes to travel with too much $$ but running out is worse!

We have some pretty basic questions but between lag time responses or loss of translation it's kinda tough with the reservations desk at Posada. Plus a lot of this we're not asking them anyways.

We'll cook and prepare food in our Casita but likely eat out dinners & drinks out after climbing, seems a good budget is around $10 USD for dinner/beer. Breakfast and market expenses sound pretty reasonable, someone had told me like $10 a day for 2 people worth of supplies. (eggs/torts/cream)

Anyone stay in the Casitas previously? Can't quite tell what's in them other than a microwave (thanks Wally) which I wouldn't have expected but hugely convenient for quick reheats of tamales, burrito's etc. I'm assuming basic cookware of pots, pans and at least place settings for the 8 people the cast could hold. Linens as I understand are on the beds correct? They just don't supply the towels?

Happy to hear a mercado and farmers market will be easy to source. I'm a bit with Leslie in that for rooms (private or casitas) aren't really "cheep" but willing to spend for a few luxuries. Humping camping gear down there for a few weeks is not what we're looking for.

Leslie, when are you headed down?

Suggestion from past International travels is to order currency from your local bank before leaving. Today's WellsFargo exchange while ordering was 14.5 cents US to 1 MX Pesos. You'll save by doing an exchange at your bank vs. the airport regardless of Country you're traveling to. Your bank lead-time may vary but something to investigate.

So far things to bring:

Melitta cone, filters and ground coffee
Personal towels
Extra Toilet Paper
Pesos for market, beers, food and community bbq's
Papertowels
Translator book and/or phone App
Cooking spice supply
Water bottler to fill, as water is safe
Earplugs
Melatonin, advil, amodium, tums

Pan - no pan? Anyone have direct experience with cookware in casistas?

Internet according to Dano72 is solid but potentially slow. Do you happen to know if it's available throughout the facility (i.e. casitas) or only down in designated areas?

Really helpful, I should have asked this stuff weeks ago. Great resource thanks all! Keep it coming, we're not leaving for a week.

How about a supply of Large Trash Bags and Work Gloves ? Not to Preach but I always went out on a rest day and collected trash between the Park and La Posada, along the road, drainage, etc. Climbers as a group are conscious of their impact. Some of the other Park visitors are less motivated and dump trash around the fragile landscape. Casita's hot shower is a great perk to choosing the room !

Leslie McG wrote:So I contacted La Posada about a room rate and they came back to me with what amounts to $50/night for just me. That seems crazy expensive for Mexico. Is there another clean place to stay? I don't mind camping, but since I'm flying its kinda a pain in the ass! Thanks to all who weighed in on this topic, especially about safety since I'm traveling solo.

You can stay at a room at posada and it's 475 pesos which is ~$30. I don't know who told you it was $50 a night, but we booked in december for March and that was the price. There isn't a booking fee but you have to pay 1/2 up front (I believe).

What are your dates? I'll be there solo for a few days as well.

susan peplow wrote: Anyone have direct experience with cookware in casistas? Internet according to Dano72 is solid but potentially slow. Do you happen to know if it's available throughout the facility (i.e. casitas) or only down in designated areas?

I don't have direct experience with cookware in the casistas, but the communal kitchen is comfortable and has LOTS of cookware. As for internet, I found that I only really had usable internet at a few places in la posada (in front of the first room, next to the office, barely any in the kitchen or the restaurant), but it was strong enough when I was in those places that I could facetime with my fiance, who was very pissed at me for not checking in (oops)

eric berghorn wrote:How about a supply of Large Trash Bags and Work Gloves ? Not to Preach but I always went out on a rest day and collected trash between the Park and La Posada, along the road, drainage, etc. Climbers as a group are conscious of their impact. Some of the other Park visitors are less motivated and dump trash around the fragile landscape. Casita's hot shower is a great perk to choosing the room !

I participated in one of those pick ups and you really don't even scratch the surface. But it's not a bad thing to do.

I'd give some advice but I've been told I'm not qualified. I'd just say to watch out for any logs in the road, they can get ya, LOL!

Wow such good info. So it sounds like we'll have enough cookwares in the casita to make do. I suppose if we're in a bind may be able to pinch from the communal kitchen (and return clean of course). If the casitas don't provide towels I doubt the provide dish soap sponges/rags so I'll toss some of that in too.

Nice idea on the trash bags. Dog bags work nice I found, easy and small in your pack. My mother always taught us to leave a place cleaner than we found it. A concept that seems lost on the younger generation. Sorry for the generalization, but it seems to be true. Not uncommon to pick up at our local crags why would MX be any different.

Having Internet access for business support is a huge stress reliever. Happy to hear that's an option.

Susan -

We stayed in the Casa Grande over New Years. Each bedroom has two twin beds. Small kitchen with a table that seats four. One bathroom. Would be a bit cozy if you had 8 in there.

There is a small stove with four burners, and a fridge, along with the microwave. Plenty of pots and pans, plates, silverware, etc.

The beds have a bottom sheet, no top sheet.

My experience is that the exchange rate from an ATM and from a credit card is much better than the exchange rate from a bank, whether the bank is a US bank or your travel destination bank. How about others - anyone else besides Susan disagree with this?

EPC is awesome - wish I was headed back . . .

Hey Susan,
We have solid internet over at the Buho cafe in town. Also the best coffee around for miles. But if you're trying to get work done, you can count on our wifi. We can also lock your computer up here if you feel safer.
Mike

@Mike, coffee is the sun of my orbit. Good to hear! AND we can go all cyber-cafe style just like in the States! Very cool. Good to know, you'll be seeing us at Buho cafe!!!

@Wally - Thanks for the stock list of the casitas and configuration, we've got some friends meeting us so our party will be of four. My business is short-term furnished rentals some of that stuff I would naturally assume would be in the room. Although, I'm learning that no towels, no coffee cone/maker and maybe no blanket would be a real drag to show up to without prior knowledge. Sheet but no blanket? That couldn't be the deal, is it? Someone somewhere referenced bringing a sleeping bag which seems crazy to me.

As for currency - I've never pulled from an ATM so I didn't realize the rates were good. Don't you get dinged with foreign transaction fee like when you use a credit card? When traveling exchanging at the airport should be more emergency or small amounts as their rates are subpar. In ten Countries always ordered currency from my bank in advance; I'd love to know the real answer, no bankers out there?

~Susan

ATM or credit card is always the best option, no matter where you travel to.

I stayed at one of the private rooms and they were equipped with multiple Mexican blankets plus sheets.

Toilet and papertowel can be purchased in town. The food is cheap but be careful what you buy. The pasta, pasta sauce, american toast, apples, peanut butter, Nutella and canned stews were very expensive. More than here at home.
Avocados, oranges... most fruits and veggies... eggs, tortillas, beans and pork were cheap.
Stick to local based cuisine and you won't spend too much money eating.

They sell really ground good coffee at the Buho coffee shop.

buy a million pounds of coffee from buho. Best coffee.

question for people still there (or for anyone that's going soon):
do you know if the resole/booze cart is still open inside the park? Last year we went mid-march and he was gone, hoping that this year he'll be there.

If it's the blue cart who's selling pizza & booze I believe that to be true at parked at Homero's currently.

When you headed down.... you looking for resoles? We could ask the dude if you like.