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East Gate Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Cabeza de Pollo T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
Clay, Like Dirt S 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Ripping Wall, The T 
Sidekick T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

El Pipe Dream 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Drew Bedford 5/14/12
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: drewford on Jan 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Drew in the business.

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


Start below the layback flake. Pull through some easy moves and into the lie back. One bolt protects the fragile flake. Then head right along a seam, past a fixed pin. Finish on El Chollo.


Just right of El Guapo, second tier of the Gate Buttress.


Standard rack. One 70m.

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By tenesmus
Jan 31, 2013

I've been looking at this line for years, imagining that it would go with natural gear and clean all the way through. So psyched it takes mostly natural gear and tons of it. The bottom crack is super fun - especially as it arcs delicately to the left and then cuts back right on jugs and nobs. The physicality of the .11 lower crux was far easier for me than the .10 finger crack of El Chollo. Many thanks to Drew for patiently awaiting me to figure out the easy part.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 13, 2013

This is THE way to get to the El Chollo finger crack. Makes for more sustained and varied climbing. Gotta go back and send!

Great find! Amazing that a line like this was sitting there unclimbed until 2012...
By skiandclimb
Jul 20, 2015

This is one of the best single-pitch route of its grade in Little. For sure the best way to do El Chollo. Still a little gritty but should clean up with more traffic. The moves passing the bolt and then traversing across the pin are great, and then you get a full rest before heading up El Chollo¬Ö Mostly finger size for pro. There is a rap anchor just below the starting ledge which makes it easier to get back down to the gully.

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