Park at the far end of the harbor. Walk on the concrete path along the shore until it ends. Then find the trail that traverses along the base of the wall. The route shares a start with a few other routes in a large, obvious corner. The first three pitches are in that large corner system that faces east to the sea. The rock to the right of the corner tends to be white, yellow and orange, while to the left of the corner it is more gray and appears fractured. You need a 60 meter rope and 14 quickdraws. A hazmat suit helps with all the guano on top.
P1= 4th class. Climb the low angle gray and yellow rock for 50 feet to a double bolt anchor jut left of the crack
P2 = 5.8, 120 feet up the crack to a two bolt anchor in an alcove.
P3 = 5.10a, 70 feet. Climb 50 feet up the corner system, then move out right on a lower angle ramp. Two bolt anchor at a stance
P4 = 5.10d, 95 feet to a three bolt anchor. Very fun climbing, with a bit of a barb in the end. Decent ledge for the belay
P5 = 5.11a, 100 feet to a three bolt anchor at a small ledge.
P6 = you have a choice. Climb an arÍte at 5.11c to the left, or climb a short face to a crack, up and right, that goes at 5.10a. It is part of Gomez Como. The crack has only two bolts, so if you arenít solid at this kind of climbing you will want a couple hand size pieces. Comfortable ledge with three bolts. 60 feet
P7 = Climb up and left and around a corner with a powerful move. This pitch is a gem. At only 5.10a, it is steep and on huge holds for 100 feet.
P8 = Again, choices. WE climbed straight up on steep rock, then a crack. The pitch follows bolts and the crack slightly left, then back right, for 100 feet to a two bolt belay on a sloping stance belay just over the rim. The other choice is the obvious, much steeper crack to the right. We wanted to climb it, but then found an obvious line that fit the Rockfax description better. Thus, we are not sure how hard the right hand, very steep crack is.
P9 = Scramble up third class ledges for 60 feet to the summit ridge.
A easy walk 100 yards north gives you the main summit.
Follow the obvious trail back down to town. It takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace.
South east face of the Penon
14 quickdraws, a cordolette for equalizing the bolts at the anchors is nice.
BETA PHOTO: El Navigante
Liz Lightner on the last technical pitch of El Nav...