El Malpais  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  7,200' Lat, Long:  34.8721, -107.8868 Map Page Views:  6,675. Good page? (6 likes)    Administrators:  Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Major climbs and areas

Description 

The El Malpais climbing area extends for twelve miles along Hwy 117 on the easern edge of the lower Grants lava flow from which the name was taken. The climbing is on soft sandstone and is comparable in quality to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. The area was first explored, starting in the Fall of 1975, by David Dahrling and David Baltz who had established thirteen moderate trad routes by December of 1976. Further action in the late '70s by Paul Horak, Mark Dalen, Charlie Ware led to additional routes, as well as visits by such out-of-state luminaries as Andrew Embick, and Earl Wiggins. Because of the intimidating nature of many of the lines, the area has seen very limited development since, in spite of the enormous potential. The vast majority of the established routes are crack climbs, entirely unlike the uniform cracks of the Indian Creek variety, but of a more varied and technical nature. Due to the soft rock, bolts and other fixed protection are rarely encountered, but nuts and cams work well. There is also excellent bouldering, the approaches are short--at most fifteen minutes from the car--and the climbing season runs from February through November.

One note about local ethics:
The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged.

Getting There 

Drive west on Interstate-40 from Albuquerque to the Hwy 117 exit four miles short of Grants. Drive south on Hwy 117 for 4 miles until past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. The first few miles are part of the Acoma Reservation and marked 'No Trespassing' even though much of the area is public land (National Monument and designated wilderness). As one approached the largest natural arch in the state, a sign will mark the beginning of unrestricted climbing.

The Classics

Featured Route For El Malpais

Crack of Heraclitus 5.12- R  NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais

(1) Begin on the face to the right of the crack and traverse into the dihedral at the 6-ft level (5.12-). Once established in the dihedral, have the rack & rope thrown up to you. Sustained climbing leads up a hand crack to an alcove below a roof (5.10b). Belay off a 5" cam or tube chock. (2) Stem and jam out the roof and make hard moves to gain the dihedral above (5.10c) then continue up the moderate but large crack to the back of a cave and an uncomfortable belay below a huge roof. (3) Trav...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of El Malpais Slideshow

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Easy approaches are the norm.	Surfin' the Turf area	Strensuous Curve
Overdrive, 1st pitch	Epitaph Corner	La Vieja (aka Mt Cosmic Debris)
"1096" -one of the areas 5.11s follows the obvious...	BETA PHOTO: Malpais basalt between La Vieja & the hiway - 15 f...	BETA PHOTO: page one of Malpais feature from December 1976 - D...
BETA PHOTO: page two of Malpais feature from December 1976 - D...	BETA PHOTO: page three of Malpais feature from December 1976 -...