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 ADVANCED
Pared la Paz
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El Jefe T 
Evangeline T 
Go Big or Go Home T 
Mal Psicologo T 
Perspectivo Nuevo T 

El Jefe 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1 [details]
FA: Jim Toman, Jonathan Estep
New Route: Yes
Season: Jan - March
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: claramie on Apr 1, 2009

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Description 

P1. Start with Mal Psicologo. Gear belay in the corner.

P2. Follow weakness then to the right past the bow flake and bolt. Continue right to bolted belay.

P3. Take steep face and corner to the wide part. Continue up and left, past the bolt to the top of the pillar and belay at the bolt.

P4. Dihedral and offwidth to thinness. Clip the bolt before going right to the belay.

P5. Crux. Pull the bulge to enter the chimney. Go right higher. Clip bolt and climb hard free or clean aid.

P6. Short. Move to the right facing finger crack. continue to the bolts.

Location 

Pared la Paz. Left side. Shares first pitches with Mal Psicologo.

Protection 

Standard free rack and some aid gear.


Comments on El Jefe Add Comment
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By themostdirect
Sep 5, 2009

This route is an open project. The line is beautiful and will continue to climb amazing crack systems and thin face to the top.

The C1 pitch may be retro-bolted for a free ascent as it would require a desperate 11+ lead with very thin brass.

Ben and I rapped the route from the standard rap route over Joe's Pocket Monkey and put one station above the major sickle roof and a single bolt beside a mega hollow flake for the descent.

This route has amazing diversity and will be a challenging gem once completed.