|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Mark Grundon Karla Moya|
|Submitted By:||Mark Grundon on Jan 6, 2013|
|Comments on El Hoyito||Add Comment|
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By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Dec 21, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar|
6 days ago
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unique is right... not so sure about how much I actually enjoyed the route, though. The rock looks and feels like it has been covered in a layer of fossilized candle wax.
The crux is extremely height dependent, requiring a full span move from an undercling to a pocket, followed by a dicey clip. Hard as nails for the short, and apparently no cakewalk for the tall either.