El Guapo 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | spring/fall |
| Submitted By: | Drew Bedford on Mar 29, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: new routes on the East Gate
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.
Location Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo
Protection Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed
By tenesmus
May 22, 2008
| Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out. |
By tenesmus
Nov 29, 2010
| I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.
Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat. |
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