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 ADVANCED
East Gate Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

El Guapo 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: new routes on the East Gate

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.

Location 

Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo

Protection 

Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed


Comments on El Guapo Add Comment
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By tenesmus
May 22, 2008

Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out.
By tenesmus
Nov 29, 2010

I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.

Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat.