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El Grandote 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard and Harry Daley, 1961
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jun 19, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The big dihedral and roof that form the first pitc...


A varied excursion up an obvious line.

P1 starts in an obvious right facing dihedral under a large roof. Exit the dihedral left before reaching the roof then move back right in to crack. Finish on a nice belay ledge to the left with a small tree.

P2 From the small tree move down the ledge a bit and then up a right to nice right facing flake. Or head up the short right facing corner above the tree with a stuck hex and piton in it and make some dicey slab moves over to the flake on the right. Trend right until right below a notch in the roof. I set up a awkward belay literally sitting on a bush.

P3 Head up through the notch and continue on easy ground (intersecting El Whampo) to another belay below a roof.

P4 Exit left through the roof or right up a short slab.

P5 Easy climbing to the shoulder. Climb up a bit on the shoulder to gain an exit into the decent gully.


Obvious right facing corner into large roof directly left of El Whampo.


Pro to 3".

Photos of El Grandote Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the second and third pitches. I bega...
Looking up at the second and third pitches. I bega...

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By Stormeh
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did the first pitch of this before bailing to El Whampo due to being stuck behind a slow party. I thought the rock quality was quite poor for the stars this route had received, although the moves were ok I guess.
By Tradoholic
Oct 8, 2015

How can you comment on quality if you only climbed the first pitch?
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I thought this was a full-value 5.9 for Idyllwild. Route-finding was a challenge on every pitch. Every pitch until you get over the roof a few hundred feet up was challenging and probably 5.9. There were frequent "better not fall" areas on every pitch, but nothing too crazy. Overall, I enjoyed the route and would recommend it. Make sure you're solid on 5.9 and be prepared to take your time finding the best route up, because there are often many good looking options that may or may not work out well, depending on your ability. I carried doubles from BD .5-3, some thin cams, nuts, lots of long runners, and it felt appropriate. I'm not aching to get on this one again, but it deserves more traffic than it appears to get. Definitely a high quality route with an alpine feel.

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