Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
El Diablo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dead Souls 
El Diablo 
Gateway, The 
Half Acre 
Heck 
I'll Take Black 
Inferno 
Malvado 
Old Feller 
Purgatory 

El Diablo 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Txavo Vales
Page Views: 1,663
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Oct 12, 2004
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route...and I think an American Fork classic. I've included this route as modified because I want to play by the rules of this site...and any route with a hold commonly referred to as "The Sika Pocket" is going to have to be suspect.

Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta. Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.

Start with the first bolt pre clipped (don't be confused by the smattering of old bolts...the bomber glue-ins are the only bolts used for this route...unless you're doggin') do a hard move into a left hand undercling, throw up to a pocket...then you're off to the races. The routes split at their respective third bolts, each clipped from the "sika pocket". The difficulties end here for "El Diablo"...but many folks pump off on the ensuing 11+ climbing due to the pump and/or nerves associated with doing your first "hard" route. I'd know...

The grading of this route is settling in around 5.12d.


Protection 

6 or 7 QDs...usually fixed.



Comments on El Diablo Add Comment
Show which comments
By mike call
Aug 22, 2008

In Spring of 2008 I straightened out Diablo with a direct start (3 new bolts). I was calling it San Miguel. Bouldery from the start to the last crux of Diablo with no rests. I think maybe 13c, but who knows.

By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 18, 2011

Splits right at the pocket at the 3rd fixed draw.