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The Ravens
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El Curvo 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Scott, Dean Brault
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,736
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Aug 9, 2009

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Jon Mavko stemming at the top of El Curvo. Lots o...
  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This one is a GEM. 130ft. that involves crystal pulling (big and small), good sequencing, some spicy bolt spacing, and tops it off with stemming (a little bit at the beginning, and some with great exposure at the end). A must do if you've made your way down to the Ravens.


    Location 

    Located on the downhill side of Raven C as seen in the topos of STL II. Starts by stemming into the chimney and follows the bolt line closest to that chimney.


    Protection 

    Bolts and Chains. I would describe this as "adventure" sport climbing as some of the bolt spacing is not what you might be used to if you're hitting up Munchkinland or even The Orifice over at The Fortress.

    It takes two ropes to get to the ground if you're using a 60M. Not sure if a 70M would do it either.



    Comments on El Curvo Add Comment
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    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Aug 10, 2009

    With a 60M rope you can lower down to the anchors on El Cuervo which is on the other tower, clip in straight pull your rope, thread, retie, then lower the rest of the way to the ground. It is a bit of a hassle but it is worth it.

    By Christian
    From: Casa do Cacete
    Aug 19, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    About a third of the way up if you look to the left you can see the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of "El Cuervo" on Raven D that you need to rap to first..

    Stellar route, I started wondering whether the stemming at the end was off route but am stoked it's not..

    Best to wait until midmorning for shade

    By Jimbo
    Aug 20, 2009

    The stemming at the top and the bottom are all part of the route. You did it like you should. Good on ya.

    I wonder if you could lower straight down into the upper part of the chimney with a 70 meter???

    By Jimbo
    Sep 21, 2009

    Did this with a 70 meter rope a few days ago. You can lower into the chimney above the big chockstone and hit terra firma. The belayer needs to be directly under the 1st bolt and paying attention to the end of the rope as there is only a foot or two to spare. We also cleaned all the draws but the last one lowering off the chains with a 70.