El Cracko Diablo 

The Route seems more awkward than difficult. I found myself a little more knotted up than in your general desert corner.

I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet.

Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!

Jackie

Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack.

Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.

Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though.

marvellous! the sort of route three parties walked past saying "maybe next time...". a word to the wise: you must do this route...when you've done so you'll know why!cheerio!

I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!

Good, solid stone...

The crux is definitely at the top of the double cracks. Bear hugging a move or two once you reach the finger crack until you reach the jugs seems to be the way to do it. Great route, fun moves.

Easier than some 5.8s! Treating the v-groove as an offwidth, ignoring the finger crack except to place gear, makes it almost trivial (gritstone Severe) but it's best to keep moving on the top section.

This route destroyed me. I'm a bigger dude (175lbs 6ft tall) and so I had to do the craziest moves in the flaring offwidth section. Watch out for those small surprise holds that help you get through the offwidth though (they are there). The two cracks up top are a cinch, until the very top were they taper out. Probably the second crux in the climb (besides the insane offwidth section). Not a bad climb, almost threw-up cause it exerted me so much :)

The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.