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Routes in South and East Faces
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Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bittersweet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R |
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Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Delta I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Let Me Go Wild T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phillip's Retreat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recidivism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walt Bailey Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Window, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rod Johnson and Pat Padden, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 40,470 total · 159/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Boner on May 30, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
See approach for TAD and Soler. This route starts to the right of TAD, and is in my opinion by far the best route of the three mentioned. Pitch one is a good lead of about 5.7 and is well suited for those getting into trad climbing on the Tower. Pitch two is longer and is very sustained 5.8 climbing. Both pitches swollow up gear and you can protect pitch 2 with as many hand-fist sized hexes and cams as you can carry. The crux will prove to be the small bulge 2/3 up on pitch 2 and the slightly narrowing crack as it tapers toward the top of the route where it ends at the Meadows. NOTE: This route can be rappelled with two ropes in two pitches, but it's recommended that you rappell in three pitches, the third being at the anchors at the ledge about 25-30 feet up from the start of the route. Rappelling in two will increase the likelyhood of having your ropes hung up on the aformentioned ledge when it is pulled.
Photos
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