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The Regency
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El Camino Royale T 
Northern Rib T 

El Camino Royale 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,186
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Mar 31, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: East Face of The Regency.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is more of a mountaineering adventure than a clean rock climb. Although the rating reflects an easy scramble it was extremely easy (at least for me) to stray off easy ground and onto low fifth class difficulty.

Start at the lowest point of the rock on the South side of the East face, but to the right of large gully. The path seems blocked by a large overhang some 200 feet above but the route escapes this obstacle on the left. From there proceed up and left to the summit some 300 feet higher.

The summit is very small and has a chopped ancient bolt. At this point check out the East face route of the Royal Arch. Connecting these two routes makes not only for a cool scrambling outing but also gets you to the Royal Arch trail for a much easier return to your car...

To descend you can: - Down climb 100ft down the East face and escape North (right) to hiking terrain - For a more exposed alternative, down climb some 30 feet of the East face on the left arete and escape onto a ledge system that takes you to the West face. From there you can descend further to the East via a ramp on the North side. A large hole/crack will then provide escape under some boulders, putting you at the base of the Royal Arch East face

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of El Camino Royale Slideshow Add Photo
Jake on the upper portion of ECR.
Jake on the upper portion of ECR.
Looking up the Regency slab.
Looking up the Regency slab.
Jake ropeless on ECR, 1/31/12.
Jake ropeless on ECR, 1/31/12.
The tree and I sharing a crack going up Regency.
The tree and I sharing a crack going up Regency.
Near the top on El Camino Royale. 1/31/12.
Near the top on El Camino Royale. 1/31/12.

Comments on El Camino Royale Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
May 1, 2003

This route has more than its fair share of lichen and pine needle pods. The summit is worth a visit as it is very cool, but the climbing I found not so good. I climbed it a few years ago though and must have taken a better line. There are many lines to choose from.
By Tom Bacus
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I climbed this with my 9 year old son yesterday. It was his first multi-pitch climb. As mentioned above I managed to find a route harder than 4th class at the top of the route. Made for exciting leads with a 9 year old belaying me (can you say free-solo?) The route had a real mountaineering feel to it. It must not see much traffic as we had to brush pine needles of holds and many of the cracks were full of moss and dirt. Every belay along the route was a nice wide ledge with w tree to sling for and anchor. We got off the top easily by downclimbing the climbers right side (north) and scrambling up to the Royal Arch. A typical Flatiron rack was more than sufficent.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Hmmm. as a solo, I find that climbing this face to reach and continue on the Royal Arch is one of the nicest link-ups around. Fully enjoyable.
By Mike McMahon
From: Vernal, Utah
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

I did this one a while back, and I remember it being a bit more technical than I expected. I believe Rossiter calls it 3rd, while Roach calls it 4th. Either way, I ventured to the far left [southish] of the rock and found it to be quite exposed and probably a low 5th class climb. Great summit and easy access to the Royal Arch!
By Jacob Miller
From: Lakeood, CO
Sep 27, 2010

I was going to post that we climbed El Camino Royale but looking at the pictures posted we didn't. We climbed up the 2nd gully from the South, 3 pitches and then joined the standard route at the notch below the 4th pitch. I am going to label it La Camino, although I am sure many others have climbed it before. The route was an easy beginner lead, ranging from easy 5th to 4th class with the standard lichen, loose flakes and pine needles. The "Gator Skin" pocketed rock on pitch 2 and 4 were wonderful. Caution: Poison Ivy at the base of climb.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 7, 2010
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

As a free-solo, this route is fantastic! Very enjoyable and great climbing. I would do it again, any time.
By Adam McFarren
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 22, 2011

Major fun when linked w/ Royal Arch. I found some 5.easy moves, but may not have been on the best route. Easy to combine with Anomaly (forgettable) and Amoeboid (a blast). Of those 4 routes, this felt the hardest (again, I may have been off the easiest line).

Re-climbed portions of all these routes in the process of solo-shooting a short video:
By Ralph Doane
Jun 21, 2011

Help! Lost "Tradmaster" shoes (size 9 or 10) on Father's Day, 2011. Probably stuck in walk-off crack between boulders! Let me know if you're headed up there - 720-352-4718!
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2013

Fun route with mostly clean rock all the way up. A great time can be had by doing this route with the Royal Arch, the Anomaly, and Ameboid for a few pitches of great scrambling all in the same general area.