El Camino Real
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|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Royal Robbins, Harry Daley and Janie Taylor, November 1961|
|Submitted By: ||Dpurf on Feb 23, 2006|
Geir leading P3 of ECR
From Fingertrip, walk around and up about 80 feet. Look for a pine tree with it top missing - that is the base of the climb. 3rd class up to it.
Pitch 1 - (5.10a) Bouldery start just left of a thin, thin crack up to a small overlap move left and up. Belay at a block ledge. Be careful with you anchor here.
Pitch 2 - Climb past 2 bolts then make a long friction traverse left past another bolt to the Jungle. Belay here.
Pitch 3 *** -(5.10a) Climb up the classic lieback crack for 80 feet. Pro is good, but at the top I would sink a good piece in and go for a small run out. The crack gets thin and less secure. 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 4 - Climb the (5.8) crack up and left then traverse right to join Jensen's Jaunt.
Or at end of pitch 3 you can mover over and down to get in to Traitor Horn, which makes for a great climb.
Pro is several thin to 2 inches
Todd Smith on El Camino Real (5.10a)
Steve Cox on the classic lieback third pitch
El Camino Real.
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Looking down from p3
|Comments on El Camino Real
|By C Miller|
Feb 23, 2006
Great climbing and the 3rd pitch lieback is a classic not to be missed.
The name El Camino Real, which translates loosely to the King's Road, refers to the 600 mile road which linked 21 missions from San Diego to Sonoma County.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006
Took a fall (story of my life) off the top of P3 and sheared the roll pins off a small TCU.
Jun 11, 2006
nice variation for the first pitch is shit for brains
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 12, 2007
One of the cleanest lines I have ever done anywhere(lieback pitch). I highly recommend it. Got confused by the runout beta though, kept looking for the crack to close off when I should have been more focused on my climbing. Save a selection of nuts and small cams (say to ~.5 Camalot) for the top half of the pitch and make your own judgement about protection. It gets steep toward the top so placing gear is more difficult but the crack changes shape enough to take a variety of small gear almost anywhere. I never felt run out but I did feel pumped out.
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
Feb 12, 2008
I must have led this route a dozen or more times over the years never get tired of ECR. A truly great line.
|By Mar' Himmerich|
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 25, 2008
On my absolutely worst day of climbing I took four 10~15 foot falls on my rope at the P3 crux!
From: San Francisco
Sep 14, 2008
I accidentally linked P1 & P2, not much of a problem if you don't mind a bit of rope drag during the traverse (5.9?) at the top of P2. Not much pro for the bouldery start, but there is a spot for a margional gear placement at the first rest stance. Also worth noting that above the first bolt on P1 there is a bit of a run out, be a confident .9/.10- slab climber. (mental crux)
I didn't struggle much on P3, move fast and don't fidget with gear. The crux at the top is only a few moves and although the crack thins in spots, there are still plenty of spots to get purchase for the lieback.
We finished on Jenson's Jaunt (5.easy/boring climbing) because there was a line for Traitor Horn. Finish up on the Traitor Horn for one of the best climbing experiences in Tahquitz.
From: laguna beach, ca
Oct 15, 2008
Did this route last thursday. Linked pitch 1 and 2. I didn't place any gear on pitch 1 until I was up the initial slab and around the left side above, otherwise there will be rope drag as the route goes up right and then way left to the jungle.
The crux pitch 3 takes all sorts of pro to 1" or so. You know when you get to the crux at the top. Place gear before the crux and then don't bother with anymore till you do one more move to top out of the crack. I took a #3 camalot and placed it in the wider crack above the lie-back - worked prfect.
We rapped straight back down w/ a 60M. To the jungle and then the bottom.
I recommend doing the the 5.11 just to right - This was a short and fun route w/ a hairy step across to get onto the slab.
From: Oak Park, CA
Jul 24, 2010
Beautiful dihedral pitch. Entire crack takes cams very well, and stoppers if one really wants to fiddle. A gem of a second pitch in between mellow pitches. Aesthetic and engaging.
|By Richard Shore|
May 17, 2011
Like many before me, I tried to gun it for the top and pumped out making the last move to the anchor on P3. Must have been a nearly 30 foot fall. The biggest I've ever taken, and very clean. Quality climbing.
P1 & P2 link easily with a 60M.
|By Mike Rice|
Sep 18, 2011
The 2nd Best 10a trad route I have ever climbed!!!
Oct 3, 2011
Definitely a little spicy up there without that third bolt!
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Oct 10, 2011
P3 is DOPE. Really no hard moves, but the pump can catch up to you. Charge it and SEND! Jugs @ the top of the pitch.
Cinch a nut on the 3rd bolt of P3 if the hanger is still MIA and you want that pro (I did). Bomber-esque.
|By tom donnelly|
May 14, 2012
The third bolt on P2 is still missing a hangar. I cinched 2 nuts on it - the outer one slung with more slack since it's just helping hold the first nut in place. You might get an offset alien to hold but very dubious.
If you rap from the jungle, you then downclimb the easy bottom of Fingertip traverse.
|By T.J. Esposito|
From: San Diego, CA
May 29, 2012
Last bolt on P2 still hangerless. Did this after a little icestorm and the belay in the jungle was awesome (and cold), sitting under an ice-covered tree! The crack on P3 is amazing.
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 26, 2012
Did this climb on Saturday, classic route. 3rd bolt on pitch two still missing hanger, can cinch a nut to it to clip onto for protection or can be a pretty big fall/swing. Classic pitch 3 also ends at 3 bolts and route can be rappeled back to the Jungle then rap back close to the ground with some 3rd class scrambling to get to base of route to avoid Friction Descent.
|By S. Saunders|
Jul 23, 2012
My partner and I replaced the hanger on the 2nd pitch yesterday. There are no threads protruding from the nut - the bolt just wasn't long enough, unfortunately. That said, the nut tightened flush with the end of the bolt, and there's a shiny new hanger. Should be good to go for a while. I know I felt better busting the move with a solid clip.
You guys owe me $3.50. :)
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 8, 2012
I love how straight forward this climb is. Crux pitch takes gear really well although it does take some extra energy while lie backing. In a couple of spots I placed a couple of pieces when one would've sufficed. I think this was the difference between falling and onsighting it for me. I would say at the crux, the hands are all there but the feet get worse. Place good gear and clip directly into it– no need to extend any slings (a habit formed when climbing 8's/9's), there is no drag on this pitch... keep moving!
If you want (or only have) a minimal rack I would take doubles with only one #1, and #2 C4. Small to medium nuts. You don't need tiny micro cams– smallest piece I placed was a #1 metolius master cam. "Several" finger sized pieces are recommended, and if that means triples I disagree–the crux pitch isn't that long and you don't need gear for the anchor. Someone mentioned lugging up a #3 C4, which is really not needed at all because by the time you can place it your standing on the belay ledge with bolts right at your face if you turned around.